Bangkok, April 11, 2024 / TRAVELINDEX / From the streets of Mumbai to the Himalayas: Tapori at Sukhumvit 47 offers a menu that transcends the clichés of Indian cuisine, showcasing the rich diversity of the country's gastronomic heritage. Tapori promises its guests an exciting culinary journey through India with a menu that unites flavors from all corners of the country.

Tapori, Hindi slang for "wanderer" or lovable, quick-witted rascal, reflects the travels of the chef and owner, who assembles authentic dishes from all over India that are largely unknown to the Indian and international palate.

India's vast landscape is surpassed only by its incredible diversity: 28 states and eight union territories, each region with its own distinct culture, language, and culinary traditions. Indian cuisine is incredibly diverse and regionally influenced by its history of invasions, trade, and the rich religious and cultural customs of its people. For far too long, Indian restaurants worldwide have relied primarily on the cuisine of the Mughals, Punjabis, and border regions, resulting in a stereotypical portrayal of the country's multifaceted gastronomic heritage. Tapori aims to change that. So be prepared for anything.

Tapori's menu, a mosaic of India's diverse culinary landscape, is the result of extensive travel and research, inviting guests to discover the lesser-known treasures of India. Carefully selected from all regions and communities, these traditional recipes tell a story on a plate – each dish a vibrant expression of the country's complex flavors and spices. Thoughtfully divided into small and large dishes, the menu is designed for communal dining. Guests can mix and match dishes to create their own personal taste experience, much like a family meal. Typical dishes like Dal Makhani, Butter Chicken, or Idli Sambar are not found here; Tapori is for adventurers who want to discover an unfamiliar India.

The small plates include specialties such as Kala Chana Ghugni (flat rice with black chickpeas from Bihar), Siddu (filled dumplings) from Himachal Pradesh, Andhra-style squid, scallop ceviche from Goa, Tabak Maas (lamb chops) from Kashmir, Kheema Ghotala (spiced minced meat) from Mumbai, and Wahan Mosdeng, a pork salad from Tripura. The main courses offer regional specialties such as Natukozhi Pulusu (a rustic chicken dish from Telangana), the spicy Masur Tenga (fish curry) from Assam, the famous Kerala beef chili fry, lobster asad from Pondicherry, and Jadoh, a pork and rice dish commonly eaten for breakfast by the Khasi tribe in northeastern India.

Tapori doesn't offer "lazy" vegetarian cuisine where proteins are simply replaced with vegetarian alternatives. Instead, it features traditional vegetarian dishes such as Undhiyu, a mixed root vegetable dish from Gujarat served with fenugreek and millet flatbread; Mochar Chop, made with potatoes and banana blossoms from West Bengal; Gobhi Musallam (grilled cauliflower) from Uttar Pradesh; and the hearty lentil and millet porridge Bajra Khichda from Rajasthan. And that's just the beginning of the culinary journey of discovery that guests can create for themselves here.

For Tapori's pastry chef, desserts become a playground of alchemy, as exemplified by his Bun Maska ice cream, an homage to Mumbai's Iranian cafés. These cafés are renowned for their simple yet iconic Bun Maska, a buttered bun traditionally enjoyed with tea. The ice cream reimagines this experience, offering a delicious blend of creamy sweetness and buttery flavor in every bite.

Another example is Lonavala Chocolate Fudge, a journey back in time to the mountain village of Lonavala, famous for its chikki (peanut brittle) and chocolate fudge. At Tapori, it's served as a delicious tart with old-fashioned chocolate-almond fudge and homemade vanilla ice cream.

THE TEAM: This fascinating story is spearheaded by culinary storyteller, owner, and chef Rohit Sharma. With his extensive experience in the hospitality industry, he has realized over 100 gastronomic projects through his consulting firm, R4 Hospitality. These include the popular restaurants Maroon Room and Freemasons Brew Works in Guwahati (Assam), as well as his own joint café in Gurgaon (Delhi NCR). Rohit designs restaurants from start to finish, overseeing not only the initial concept but also the design and selection of furnishings, and, of course, the menu development. His projects reflect the rich diversity of Indian culture and cuisine.

His latest restaurant project, Tapori, is the realization of his culinary dream – a meticulously crafted concept that reflects his deep passion for and extensive knowledge of Indian cuisine, blending tradition and innovation. To develop this concept, he traveled throughout India in search of traditional recipes to create a menu that mirrors the "Tapori's" journey across the country. This research resulted in a comprehensive database of 300 dishes, 29 of which made it into the initial menu version.

“Culinary art is more than just cooking; it tells stories that touch the soul,” says Sharma. “At Tapori, we embark on a journey through India, turning to grandmothers and mothers, the guardians of our culinary traditions. We explore the diversity of flavors that define our heritage, creating a menu that pays tribute to authentic recipes passed down through generations. Each dish represents one of India’s states or communities and is a chapter in the history of Indian food culture. With every bite, we invite you to discover an unknown, unexplored, and unforgettable India.”

Rohit is supported in realizing his dream by head chef Anirban Chowdhury, his Delhi-based R4 Hospitality research and development manager, and pastry chef Swati Harsha, who created the desserts for the menu.

THE DESIGN The restaurant is dedicated not only to its food but also to its surroundings, aiming to showcase the diversity and vibrancy of India. The interior design reflects the owner's vision, seamlessly blending modern elements with traditional Indian touches to create an elegant and warm ambiance that feels both intimate and sophisticated.

The owner-designed interiors blend modern elements with traditional Indian touches to create an elegant and warm ambiance that is both intimate and sophisticated. Beyond the 200-year-old wooden door from Rajasthan, which leads into the spacious bungalow, the decor pays homage to India's rich artistic heritage, showcasing a collection of artworks that reflect the country's diverse cultural traditions. The striking black and white floor provides an impressive foundation, harmonizing with the warm tones of the woven leather armchairs and the marble-like tables that glow invitingly from within. Imposing vermillion pillars evoke Indian spices, while a parade of colorful Indian elephants adds to the aesthetic.

From the geometric patterns of Warli art and the tribal motifs of Bastar to the richly detailed narratives of Madhubani art and the vibrancy of Pichwai art, each of these time-honored art forms celebrates India's unique visual language. An imposing, hand-carved mirror mosaic depicting a preening peacock and an almost ten-meter-long oil painting of the Kerala backwaters enliven the space and bridge the gap between contemporary design and traditional craftsmanship.

Outdoors, the terrace offers a tranquil retreat for dining and blends seamlessly into the natural surroundings. The backdrop is formed by murals that capture the essence of Indian storytelling through vibrant colors and patterns.

Tapori is more than just a restaurant; it is a journey through India, offering an immersive experience in the richness of Indian culture and heritage through its flavors and designs.