Why should you go there and how do you do it right?

This restaurant specializes in a single dish, and that's precisely what makes it so appealing. Pad Thai, in its various forms, is prepared over high heat in an open kitchen that can be watched from the counter. The most frequently ordered version is wrapped in a thin omelet with king prawns, and the aroma of prawn oil wafts towards you even before the plate arrives. It has a slightly sweet note, but lime and chili flakes are on the table to balance the heat, and bean sprouts are served separately. The noodles retain their firm texture and don't become soggy.

It costs more than at a street stall, and the portions aren't huge. Reviewers say it's worth going once, and I agree, rather than going regularly. There's a non-pasta option if you want to avoid carbs—a rarity in a pasta restaurant. The service can be a bit overwhelmed when the place is busy, so don't expect too much attention. The clientele these days is mostly international.