Travel journalist Caroline Gladstone has visited dozens of Asian and European markets over the years and shares her experiences from the early morning at the Nan markets in northern Thailand.
Thai morning markets have a special charm. Locals and tourists alike can offer alms to the Buddhist monks and their young novices who wander the streets shortly after sunrise. This ritual is called giving alms, or in Thai, "tak bat".
Our group of Australian travelers left the hotel at 6:00 a.m. to visit Nan's morning market, which was already bustling with activity at that early hour. Upon arrival, our tour guide gave us brief instructions on what to do when the monks arrived. She gave each of us a pre-prepared offering packet—a small bundle containing sticky rice, water, and sweets—which we had purchased from a nearby vendor (for 35 baht each, or about US$1.50) to give to a passing monk in exchange for his blessing.
We lined up waiting, and before we knew it, the monks seemed to appear out of nowhere. When they stopped in front of us, we knelt and presented them with our offerings. The monks then placed the offerings in a large steel bowl, which each of them carried in a cloth bag over his shoulder.
Once the monks' bowls are full, they return to the temple, where the food is distributed among the worshippers. Each monk receives two small meals a day (which may include meat), and what the monks don't eat is given to the needy. Any leftovers are fed to the cats and dogs living at the monastery.
Some ceremonies, as I've read, have become veritable tourist attractions, with tourists crowding around for the best photos and creating chaos that doesn't do justice to the actual occasion. But here in rural Nan, far from the hustle and bustle, everything is still peaceful.
The markets in Nan are fascinating – the best I've visited in years. I think this is because they are small (it's almost impossible to get lost) and the food looked fresh and appetizing. Although it was quite crowded, the stall owners didn't seem too distracted by the customers and had time to nod and smile at us. I was fascinated by the pink eggs – perhaps they were meant for children – and found the small coconut milk "pancakes" that one vendor was cooking on a hot griddle absolutely delicious.
Other things I discovered were less cute – a bucket full of wriggling snakes and another full of tiny turtles swimming frantically in the cramped space. I wondered what would happen to them – and, of course, speculated about who would buy the snakes and for what purpose!
It's definitely worth sacrificing some sleep and getting up early to visit the markets – the streets are bustling with life, the monks are a fascinating sight, and there's always something sweet to discover. And who wouldn't want to start the day with a blessing?
Getting there: Nan is best reached by plane. From Don Mueang Airport in Bangkok, the journey takes just over an hour. Nok Air offers five daily flights, and Air Asia offers two. There are also two weekly flights from Chiang Mai Airport with Kan Air, which take about 45 minutes.
You can find Caroline's full story on her travel blog, Caroline's Cabin Fever.

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