Why should you go there and how do you do it right?

If you want to experience Lanna cuisine in a single dish, then this is the place for you. For decades, this restaurant in the old city has been considered the benchmark for northern Thai food. It's located in a house near Wat Phra Singh, crammed with antiques, and the evening service in the main room is an absolute must. Candlelight, dark wood, shadows in the corners—it doesn't feel like a place specifically designed for tourists, even though many visitors come here.

Order Gaeng Hang Lay. This slow-cooked, spicy pork curry is the benchmark by which many locals measure other dishes, and I'd happily set an entire table around it. Nam Prik Ong is served with crispy pork crackling for dipping, and if you're new to the region's cuisine, a Khantoke-style buffet is the best way to start. Khao Soi is also on the menu, and no one will judge you if you order it.