Bangkok, Thailand, April 13, 2026 / TRAVELINDEX / Situated on the banks of the River of Kings, Baan Phraya is opening a new chapter in its rich culinary history. Once the residence of Phraya Mahai Savan and Khunying Luean Mahai Savan, the centuries-old house was renowned for its glittering gatherings, where Thai nobility and high-ranking guests were welcomed with warm hospitality and refined, homemade dishes. Their warmth, generosity, and deep appreciation for Thai cuisine shaped the character of the house – a spirit that continues to define Baan Phraya today.

In 1986, several rooms of the house were converted by the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok, into Thailand's first Thai cooking school. This preserved original recipes and techniques while ushering in a new era of cultural exchange. Since then, the house has been lovingly restored, carefully preserving its architectural charm from the reign of King Rama V. Today, Baan Phraya is a living testament to Thai heritage. Its original teak wood and intricate carvings reflect the stories and traditions that have shaped it for generations.

At the heart of the revival is head chef Phatchara “Pom” Pirapak, whose culinary philosophy reflects the restaurant's heritage. Like Khunying Luean before her, Pom is known for her precise craftsmanship and intuitive understanding of Thai flavors. As a guardian of culture, she breathes new life into long-forgotten regional recipes with a modern perspective. Her cuisine honors traditional methods, from grilling over charcoal and mortar and pestle grinding to the delicate preparation of dok jok, while simultaneously presenting each dish with a touch of modernity.

Each dish is created with balance in mind, guided by appearance, aroma, taste, and emotional impact. The menu reflects the timeless identity of Thai cuisine, celebrating aromatic herbs, distinctive cooking techniques, and the subtle interplay of sour, salty, and sweet. Chef Pom's commitment to authenticity is complemented by her mindful approach to sustainability.

The ingredients come from trusted local producers throughout Thailand, from the northern highlands around Chiang Mai to small community farms. A small organic garden next to the house provides fresh herbs and young shoots, some of which she incorporates into her dishes.

Among their specialties is a refined interpretation of Tom Kha: Prachuap Khiri Khan squid stuffed with young coconut and lightly grilled over charcoal. The broth, infused with galangal and enriched with herbs from their own organic garden, is aromatic, creamy, and comforting. Another highlight is the grilled Surat Thani river prawn, halved and grilled to bring out its natural sweetness. It is served with a tangy tamarind-chili sauce and a rich tomato reduction. Pickled watermelon rind, colored with turmeric and hibiscus blossoms, adds a fresh splash of color.

Inspired by the building's past as Thailand's first culinary school, the restaurant has been redesigned as an intimate setting for Chef Pom's culinary artistry, where the connection between kitchen and table is central to the experience. Intricate carvings, original architectural details, and subtle references to the Vanda orchid—a symbol from Phraya Mahai Savan's writings on Thai plant decoration—pay tribute to the building's heritage with a contemporary touch, creating the perfect atmosphere for guests' dining experience.

The experience begins on the terrace, where guests are greeted with Mha Hor, Thai honeycomb cookies (Khanom Dok Jok). Mha Hor combines tangy pineapple with caramelized pickled radish and roasted peanuts for a perfectly balanced delight. The honeycomb cookie, subtly flavored with Somsa, is paired with a tamarind-chili paste for a savory note, while kombucha provides a refreshing contrast. In the open kitchen, a small appetizer of savory ice wine leaves with roasted rice and coriander, accompanied by a glass of kombucha, is served before guests are shown to their seats for dinner.

Guests can experience Baan Phraya on two culinary journeys: a six-course menu for 3,400 THB++ and an eight-course menu for 3,800 THB++. Both menus begin with delicate appetizers such as Mha Hor and the restaurant's signature Thai honeycomb cookie, before continuing with dishes that celebrate regional ingredients and traditional preparation methods. Highlights include Prachuap Khiri Khan squid in a galangal-infused coconut broth, marinated goby grilled in a coconut shell, and grilled Khao Yai duck in a green curry with sour grapes and hearts of palm. The expanded eight-course menu also includes squeezed watermelon with Nakhon Pathom bitter orange and grilled Surat Thani river prawns served with a rich tomato and young tamarind chili paste. It offers a deeper insight into Chef Pom's ingredient-oriented approach to Thai cuisine.

Baan Phraya welcomes a new generation of guests with the same spirit that once defined the home: warm service, refined Thai home cooking, and deep respect for tradition. Here, cultural heritage is preserved through artisanal skill, and every meal offers a quiet appreciation of Thai culinary culture.

Opening hours: Dinner: 6:00 PM – 11:00 PM (last order at 9:00 PM) Friday to Tuesday