Guest author John Borthwick explores Thailand's self-proclaimed "Extreme City".

Pattaya, Thailand's fastest-growing resort, has many faces – sunny, temple-filled, boisterous, lively, and culinary – but never shy. Located on the Gulf of Thailand, 150 km southeast of Bangkok, it has long since left behind its beginnings as a recreation area for military personnel and the wild parties of the Vietnam War. If there is such a thing as a uniform in Pattaya these days, it's shorts, a beach shirt, and a sunburn.

Many visitors complement their chic outfits with golf equipment, thanks to the numerous golf courses nearby. The increasing elegance of the restaurants and resorts now attracts almost ten million visitors annually to Pattaya, not to mention Thai families, expats, and retirees.

Girl in blue by the pool of a hotel in Pattaya. Copyright John Borthwick

Around 60 years ago, when a group of US Air Force personnel discovered the mild coastline and breathtaking sunsets of the sleepy fishing village of Pad Tha Ya while on vacation, it was all about beaches and nightlife. Six decades later, Pattaya ranked 15th among the world's most visited cities in the 2019 Mastercard Global Destination Cities Index, with an impressive 9.44 million international visitors.

Local passenger transport, known as a "songthaew" (two-seater).

Pattaya's main beach is densely packed with sun loungers and boats. For wider, whiter sand, a trip south over the hill to Jomtien or north to the bays of Wong Amat is recommended. The best (and most entertaining) way to explore the city is by "baht bus," the blue pickup trucks that constantly travel along Beach Road and Second Road. (In Thai, they're called songthaews – "two-seaters.") Thanks to the two benches in the back, passengers can hop on and off anywhere and pay a fixed fare of ten baht.

Pattaya Bay at dusk, view south from the Dusit Thani Hotel. Copyright John Borthwick

For family outings, the surrounding Chonburi province offers high-quality theme parks such as Nong Nooch Tropical Gardens and Ramayana Water Park. Near the water park is Buddha Mountain, a 100-meter-high statue carved in gold into a cliff face. However, the most famous attraction is the Shrine of Truth in Wong Amat, just north of the city. This extraordinary structure, built entirely of wood and topped with a 105-meter-high spire, blends Eastern religions and mythology and took 30 years to construct.

The golf region around Pattaya could be described as Siam's golfing paradise, with around 20 golf courses and driving ranges within an hour's drive. For a less strenuous option, Thai massages are readily available throughout the city. While the quality varies, at under $10 an hour, you can easily find several options. The experienced masseuse at the Thai Blind Massage Institute in the Jomtien Complex shopping mall is highly recommended.

Neon Nights, Pattaya, Thailand, Copyright John Borthwick

Nightlife remains Pattaya's hallmark, and in some parts of the city, it truly comes alive when the numerous beer bars fill up. Along Walking Street in South Pattaya, a dazzling strip of go-go bars, street musicians, and awestruck groups of tourists chasing flags, you'll find a nightlife scene with an industrial edge. Find a spot at one of the open-air bars, order a beer, and observe the vibrant scene in all its facets – from beauty to exuberance. Keep in mind that the city's welcome arch at Jomtien Beach proclaims: "Pattaya – the extreme city" – a blend of boast and warning.

Tiffany show. Copyright John Borthwick

Pattaya offers entertainment for every taste and gender. The most glamorous transvestite cabaret, the famous Tiffany Show, presents elaborately costumed kathoey (ladyboys) whose acrobatic dance routines with playback elements are not only entertaining but also suitable for the whole family.

Shopping is high on the list for many visitors, and Pattaya offers a huge selection of affordable beachwear, shoes, and luggage. Those looking for high-quality brand-name items at fixed prices should visit the shopping centers right on the beach, such as Central Festival or Royal Garden.

Sanctuary of Truth, Teakwood Temple, Pattaya, Copyright John Borthwick

Here you'll be spoiled for choice when it comes to hotels, as major chains like Holiday Inn, Sheraton, Dusit, Marriott, Hilton, and Accor are represented. In addition, there are numerous good mid-range hotels, stretching from Naklua in the north, through the party district in central Pattaya, to Jomtien in the south.

Survival tips: Swim in Jomtien or Wong Amat rather than the dubious waters of Pattaya Bay. Never rent a jet ski (rip-offs are commonplace) and don't use a camera in go-go bars (bouncers are everywhere). Never get into a taxi without negotiating the price first. Avoid Pattaya during the Thai New Year festival, Songkran, in mid-April. You'll be soaked day and night for a week in the world's largest watertight harbor. Fun at first, but not so much after a while.

Text and photos © John Borthwick 2020