Guest author John Borthwick recently traveled to the north to explore two hidden gems: two historic Thai cities.

"Nan and Phrae – where are they?" This is a question you often hear when you mention these historic towns in northern Thailand. While they are off the beaten tourist track, they are easy to find: From Bangkok, simply drive 560 kilometers along the highway, and you'll arrive in Phrae. There you can take a break and then continue another 130 kilometers northeast to Nan.

So what can you expect? In short: Thailand as the Thais themselves experience it: historic cities full of Lanna temples, magnificent teak villas, and traditional hospitality. Cities that have retained their local character and haven't been replaced by shopping malls and interchangeable tourist markets.

Phrae, Thailand's former teakwood capital, still boasts around 20 magnificent wooden villas, ornate remnants from a century ago when the town was home to logging companies such as the Bombay Burmah Trading Company and the East Asiatic Company, as well as foreigners like Louis T. Leonowens, the son of the controversial Anna Leonowens from the film "The King and I".

Take a tour in a samlor bicycle rickshaw and admire the intricate, colonial-style mansions of Phrae. The most famous mansion, Khum Chao Luang, belonged to the last independent ruler of Phrae, who fled in 1902. His two-story Italianate palace, built in 1892, is now a museum where you can see his opulent household items. But beneath the polished teak floors lies a dark past. The basement served as a prison where the feudal lord locked slaves and wrongdoers in darkness, awaiting punishment or death.

“Go down into the basement backwards so you can get out safely,” says our local guide, trying to grin, but it’s more of a grimace. Many Thais are both fascinated and repelled by ghosts, and I hear visitors whispering about hauntings in the basement. The guide adds, “Ask the ghost permission before taking a picture in there.”

Phrae also has a lighter side. During my rickshaw ride, I admire the temples and mansions from sunnier times, like the magnificent Vichairacha House. And then there are the local customs. "The northern Thai language they speak sounds so sweet and gentle. And the smell of grilled chicken and hot sticky rice in a bamboo tube for breakfast..." My Thai friend Sam reminisces about a youth trip to this region, which for me embodies the best of the Thai hinterland: prosperity without ostentation, modernity without traffic jams, and the rich history of the Lanna kingdoms.

If Nan, much like Phrae, is a paradise for history buffs, then for partygoers it's perhaps more like hell. There's no dazzling nightlife here – instead, you can enjoy dishes like Khao Soy Ghai with banana blossom salad and crispy fried freshwater fish under the stars on the banks of the Nan River. The six of us did just that, drinking well and eating even better, all for under a thousand baht, the equivalent of about forty dollars.

Nan Province boasts 475 temples, so you're guaranteed to encounter many in its capital city. Local schoolchildren at Wat Suantan, who are being trained as temple guides, perform a melodious recitation about their temple. It's all in Thai, but still very entertaining.

Wat Phumin, built in 1569, is the landmark of Nan. Its golden Buddha statue in the center faces in four directions, but the real fascination lies in the colorful murals depicting scenes from the life of Buddha and other aspects of daily life in Nan during the changing late 19th century, including depictions of foreign sailing ships and European costumes.

Whitewater rafting is very popular in Nanjing in June and July, but I'm here in March when the river is low and it's sweltering. So I'm going to a famous sweet shop called Khong Wan Pa Nim. The black sticky rice with ice cream, sago, and coconut milk is, I swear, the best in the entire kingdom.

Nan is both modern and steeped in tradition. Founded in 1282, it was the capital of an independent Lanna kingdom, situated halfway between Chiang Mai and Luang Prabang, and absorbing the cultures of both cities. The ancient city walls are still visible today, especially when exploring the city's sights by taking the tourist train, including Nan's numerous teakwood villas.

During our tour, the guide announced that Nan had been declared the "137th safest city in the world." Was something lost in translation? Or, considering the countless cities worldwide, is that perhaps an enviable title? Be that as it may, in Nan you're as safe as in your own home, your temple, and its unbeatable ice cream.

I'm almost there.

Nok Air flies to both Phrae and Nan from Don Mueang Airport in Bangkok; www.nokair.com. Air-conditioned coaches depart from the Mo Chit Terminal in Bangkok.