Why should you go there and how do you do it right?

This place is all about plara. It's fermented fish, the spicy backbone of northeastern and central Thai cuisine, and that's exactly what this restaurant is all about—not the pad thai and banana pancakes you can get everywhere. If you've spent the week eating watered-down tourist versions of Thai food, this is the change you need.

It's located right at the entrance to the Talat Yot Market on the edge of Khao San Road, and the ambiance reflects the cuisine: simple and quick, without any frills. The prices are incredibly reasonable, which is one reason why it attracts a mixed crowd of locals and travelers who have done their research. Plara is strong, sour, and salty—a flavor that can surprise some on first try. If in doubt, ask for an appetizer. A small but well-prepared menu is usually better than a long, imprecise one—and that's exactly what matters here.