What began as a remote refuge for expats and spies evolved into a Bangkok institution that attracted Hollywood's elite. Travel writer Rod Eime enjoys a few beers and immerses himself in the music—and history—of Bangkok's oldest bar: Check Inn 99. Here's an excerpt from his article about Thailand Jing Jing.

It was a fairly simple invitation. Emigrant, biker buddy, bestselling author, wannabe pop star, and thoroughly likeable crook Stu Lloyd said: "Come with me for a quiet beer at Check Inn 99. There's an open mic this afternoon."

When I entered the small, unassuming venue, the Sunday afternoon crowd was just getting into the groove. A local Thai musician was playing some seriously cool blues chords on a large semi-acoustic Fender, while saxophonists and jazz keyboardists took their accompaniment roles very seriously. Stu hadn't exaggerated; there were already some truly talented musicians rocking out.

Stu introduces me to Chris Catto-Smith, a former Royal Australian Air Force (RAAF) fighter pilot, who runs Check Inn 99 with his Thai wife, Jiraporn, known as "Mook" to their many friends. For nearly 60 years, Check Inn 99 occupied the same location on the now-famous Sukhumvit Strip between Sois 5 and 7, originally under the name "Copacabana." Chris and Mook renovated the establishment in 2011, transforming the former go-go bar for US soldiers on leave from Vietnam into a trendy nightclub with good food, a well-stocked bar, and top-notch live music.

“Back then, the Copa was something of an institution,” Chris tells me over another glass of red wine. “Celebrities met here and relaxed undisturbed. Bob Hope, Bing Crosby, Rachel Welch, and David Bowie, to name just a few. Not bad, considering it all started with simple country girls in ball gowns.”

After their long struggle to save the original location failed, Chris and Mook took the name and its associated atmosphere to a new location on Soi 33 and did their best to revive the spirit of the place. And their efforts seem to have been largely successful.

One spirit that will forever leave Check Inn 99 is that of the famous "Mamasan," known as Noi or later Mama Noi. Noi passed away in 2016 after a career in Bangkok's nightlife that began in 1960 when she was a vivacious 17-year-old at the Copa nightclub. With her classic Thai-Khmer beauty and irrepressible temperament, she was often seen in the company of Bob Hope and his entourage.

The band is joined by a mysterious and glamorous woman with dark skin. She sings R&B, blues, and gospel with a voice that gives me goosebumps. We're completely captivated for a full 30 minutes. As she leaves the stage to thunderous applause, she strolls casually over to our table and chats easily with the other guests. I compliment her fantastic performance, and she smiles appreciatively before continuing the conversation. Stu nudges me in the ribs with his elbow and whispers, "You know that's Deni Hines!"

Deni tells us she's been in Bangkok for almost a year now (who would have guessed?), while continuing her music career and volunteering. Wow, she's still got it, and Check Inn 99 is living up to its reputation as a haunt for spontaneous celebrity encounters.

Read Rod Eime's full article here on Thailand Jing Jing, an insider's guide to Thailand's many hidden treasures.