Why should you go there and how do you do it right?

This is a market for locals who shop here, not a place specifically designed for tourists – and that's precisely why it's worth setting aside an hour in the morning. Stalls offer vegetables, tropical fruits, bundles of herbs, inexpensive clothing, and household goods, with prices tailored to the needs of Chiang Rai's residents.

The food is the main reason I'd send anyone there. Noodle soups, grilled skewers, ready meals at bargain prices. If you can stand it, come between 5 and 8 a.m., when the ingredients are freshest and the food stalls are bustling. Alternatively, late afternoon, around 4 to 7 p.m., is a good option. If you come at lunchtime, you'll see many half-empty tables and wonder what all the fuss is about.

Don't expect a gleaming, polished kitchen. The floors are wet, the aisles narrow, and no one will explain what they're selling in English. That's the price you pay for getting an authentic glimpse into the city's food culture.