Why should you go there and how do you do it right?

Go-Ang is the reason why "pink chicken rice" is so famous in Bangkok. The food stall in Pratunam, whose staff uniforms gave it the nickname, has evolved into a Michelin-starred institution serving some of the best khao man gai in the city—tender poached chicken on rice cooked in the chicken's broth, with a ginger-chili sauce that regulars would fiercely defend. The recipe is Hainanese culinary art perfected over decades, and the price reflects the street food it still is: a plate and a bowl of broth cost less than a day pass for the Skytrain.

The shop in Pratunam is bright, lively, and geared towards quick turnover – order, sit down, eat, marvel, leave – and the queue of office workers, tourists, and taxi drivers speaks for itself. It's ideal for a quick lunch right next to the labyrinthine Pratunam market and just a stone's throw from Ratchaprarop railway station, which connects to the airport.