Travel journalist Jennifer Johnson describes her first impressions of Bangkok and the beautiful Anantara Hotel on the riverbank, of glittering, bustling temples and tourists in baggy pants.
The scent of sweet coconut and zesty mint fills the air. I take a deep breath. The aromas come from my body scrub at the Anantara Spa in Bangkok. I'm lying face down on the massage table in one of the spa's private rooms, enjoying the scrub with the white coconut and mint blend. Every stroke of my Thai masseuse is the perfect way to banish the last traces of jet lag.
Let's rewind 15 hours: I was racing to Brisbane International Airport, the last passenger to check in for an overnight flight to Bangkok. I don't know what possessed me to choose the overnight connection. I thought that with a little sleep, the eight and a half hours would fly by. I had completely overlooked the incessant crying of a baby that kept me awake. Upon arriving in Bangkok, I felt anything but rested. But at least I was looking forward to my pre-booked spa treatment at the Anantara Hotel.
Hotel by the river
The 27-year-old Anantara Hotel has retained its traditional ambiance. Even in the lobby, the gentle sound of a waterfall captivates me. From the floor above reception, water cascades into two stacked outrigger canoes. Right next to them, another pool floats, adorned with small arrangements of white blossoms on large green philodendron leaves. I love the tropical touches.
I have an hour to spare before my spa appointment, so I take the opportunity to stroll around the hotel grounds. The pool is the hotel's centerpiece, surrounded by lush vegetation. The white columns and the orange tiled roof over the pool bar immediately catch the eye. I pass a family with small children, one of whom is excitedly pointing at something in the pool area. I glance over the balcony railing and discover what's captivating him. Two water dragons (large lizards) are ambling along the tiled edge of a pond, close to the pool. I watch as their long, scaly bodies glide into the water and disappear silently beneath the lily pads.
Relax in the Anantara Spa and let your mind wander.
After my heavenly coconut-lime scrub, I take a long shower and feel truly refreshed for the first time since leaving Brisbane. During my 30-minute massage, I glide under the firm yet loving hands of my therapist, Suphee. It finishes with a foot bath. While chatting with Nok (Suphee's Thai nickname), I ask her for tips about Bangkok. Her almond-brown eyes sparkle, and she says with a broad smile, "You absolutely must come back to the spa and treat yourself to more treatments." That sounds very tempting, Nok, but I have to leave the comfort of the hotel and explore Bangkok.
Take a boat trip to the Grand Palace
Bangkok is a vibrant metropolis, pulsating at the pace one would expect from a capital city. I'm excited to explore and have decided to visit the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew. The transfer from the Anantara Hotel to the Saphan Taksin Terminal (a central hub connecting to many of Bangkok's attractions) is straightforward. The Anantara's guest boat runs every twenty minutes (from 6:00 a.m. to midnight). The concierge recommends the "Express Boat – Orange Flag" to the Grand Palace. It was a little confusing figuring out which boat was the express boat at the Saphan Taksin Terminal (the orange flag is small). But once I understand the Thai system, all I have to do is follow the queue. Somehow, I eventually end up on the boat with the orange flag. My boat is packed with tourists and locals, including a group of five young, solemn-looking monks in bright orange robes. Floating on the murky, brown Chao Phraya River for 15 baht (50 Australian cents) is not only an inexpensive crossing, but also an insight into life in Bangkok.
Nine stops later, at the "Tha Chang" pier (N9), I disembark along with most of the other tourists and follow the flow of people past a maze of small shops. The streets are closed off to ensure the safety of tourists, and within five minutes I reach the gates. About 150 meters further on is the ticket office, where I buy an entrance ticket for the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew for 500 baht (about US$20).
The 94.5-hectare grounds of the Grand Palace were consecrated in 1782 to mark the founding of Bangkok as the new capital. This self-contained city within a city served as the royal residence from King Rama I (1782–1809) to King Rama V of the Rattanakosin Kingdom (1868–1910). While the royal family now resides in Dusit, the impressive temples and ancient-style buildings, including the tomb of the sacred Emerald Buddha (Phra Keo), are open to visitors daily from 8:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.
Warning! As this is an important pilgrimage site for devout Buddhists and one of Thailand's most popular tourist destinations, expect large crowds of tourists and tour guides. Unfortunately, it's almost impossible to avoid the tour guides who shout at their groups and show little consideration for others who wish to experience the spiritual significance of the place.
Appropriate clothing, please.
Visitors to Thailand should respect the conservative nature of Thai culture, which dictates modesty in behavior and clothing. Knees, shoulders, and heels must be covered before entering sacred sites. Perhaps it was the heat or jet lag, but within the walls of the Grand Palace, I was amused by the variety of wide-legged, Thai-style yoga pants (Chong Kraben) that covered the knees, which I saw everywhere.
Everywhere I looked, I saw matching pants and bright colors – instead of taking selfies, I couldn't stop photographing Thai yoga pants. In the Land of Smiles, I simply couldn't stop smiling.
This article is based on a blog post originally published on Jennifer Johnson's travel blog, "The Travel Bug Within." Follow Jen at @travelbugwithin.

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