Guest author John Borthwick skips the “superstar” temples of Bangkok and Chiang Mai and discovers fascinating alternatives in the provinces.

Wat Phumin, Nan. Located approximately 700 km north of Bangkok, the province of Nan boasts 475 Buddhist temples. The most famous is Wat Phumin (1569) in the capital city of Nan. Its vibrant murals depict not only the life of Buddha but also secular life in Nan during the late 19th century, including images of foreign sailing ships and European-style clothing.

Wat Phra That Su Thon Mongkhon Khiri Samakkhi Tham, Den Chai, Phrae. The city of Den Chai, on the main railway line about 500 km north of Bangkok, is home to the temple Wat Phra That Su Thon Mongkhon Khiri Samakkhi Tham, whose name has 13 syllables. The sprawling temple in the northern Lanna style is dominated by an impressive, nine-meter-long reclining Buddha and is located about five kilometers outside the city.

Wat Doi Kong Mu, Mae Hong Son. Climbing nearly 1,000 steps leads to the whitewashed pagodas and golden spires of Wat Doi Kong Mu, which overlooks the picturesque town of Mae Hong Son. The climb is well worth it to admire this temple, perched like a marzipan castle atop a mountain peak, and the breathtaking views of the jungle hills in the nearby Shan State of Myanmar.

The White Temple, Chiang Rai. The ornate Wat Rong Khun, also known as the White Temple, is a crystalline, almost fairytale-like structure that appears to be made of ceramics and mirrors. Since its opening in 1998, it has been one of Chiang Rai's main attractions. During your stay, also visit the Blue Temple (Wat Rong Seua Ten) and the Black House (Baan Dam), the former residence of an artist.

Wat Mahathat, Ayutthaya. The Ayutthaya Historical Park, north of Bangkok, contains the ruins of numerous Buddhist temples. From 1350 to 1767, Ayutthaya was the capital of Siam, and the plain is still dotted with tall prang reliquary towers. Among the well-preserved ruins is the famous Wat Mahathat (1374), known for the Buddha face emerging from the roots of an ancient banyan tree.

The Monkey Temple of Lopburi. Hundreds of macaques live in the town of Lopburi, especially around the Khmer temple Prang Sam Yot. A famous monkey festival takes place here on the last Sunday of November. But beware! These monkeys can be quite cheeky and will snatch anything you leave lying around in the blink of an eye (hat, sunglasses, camera, passport, jewelry), not to mention any food you might have hidden in your pockets. They are aggressive. Take a stick with you and use it. Do not feed them.

Wat Prayurawongsawat, Thonburi, Bangkok. The gleaming white stupa of Wat Prayurawongsawat rises 60 meters above the surrounding cityscape. Because its top was in danger of toppling, engineers ingeniously stabilized it from the inside. Inside, a unique sight awaits: the hollow, brick-lined stupa. It is a wonderfully peaceful place. Afterward, visit the small, adjacent historical museum.

Text and photos © John Borthwick 2020