Award-winning travel writer John Borthwick discovers a new link between Thailand's two most popular tourist destinations: the ferry from Pattaya to Hua Hin.

Thailand's two most popular resorts, Hua Hin and Pattaya, lie opposite each other on the Gulf of Mexico, just 100 kilometers apart. For decades, however, the journey from one to the other was a 350-kilometer, five-hour ordeal. But now a direct and fast ferry connection links the two cities across the Gulf.

The Royal Ferry, an elegant high-speed catamaran, departs every morning from Bali Hai Pier in Pattaya and speeds across the Gulf. Two hours later, it docks south of Hua Hin and returns to Pattaya a few hours after that.

Hua Hin is the most popular tourist destination in Prachuap Khiri Khan province. Home to a royal holiday palace, the city has retained a restrained elegance that Pattaya never really prioritized. Instead of pub-goers and jet skiers, you're more likely to encounter golfers and long-term vacationers, as the region boasts ten world-class golf courses.

The city's long, flat beaches are generally free of groups of sun loungers and speeding boats, and in the evenings you can eat and shop to your heart's content at the numerous night markets. The most authentic is still the original, bustling market in the heart of the city on Soi 72.

After exploring the sights of Hua Hin, it's time to leave the city by train. Head to the historic train station and take a train south to authentic Prachuap, a land of plenty far removed from mass tourism and tour groups.

Prachuap Khiri Khan, as its name suggests, is a long and picturesque province. Along its beaches, which stretch from headland to headland, you'll find maritime pines and fishing boats instead of merchants and high-rise buildings. Take, for example, the small town of Baan Grood, 100 km south of Hua Hin, or, another hour south, the idyllic island of Koh Talu.

This "sunny side of the Gulf" is very popular with Thai families who know the area. The lack of a convenient airport also contributes to the peace and tranquility of this place – a sunny spot that has to be earned.

The air-conditioned Royal Ferry connects Hua Hin and Pattaya and offers 346 reserved seats, including 44 in Business Class on the upper deck. Book your seat (passport required) for 1250 Baht (Economy) or 1500 Baht (Business) and check in one hour before departure. www.royalferrygroup.com

Text: John Borthwick. Photos: John Borthwick and archival material.