As I stood by Phayao Lake shortly before sunset, a woman approached me. She looked Thai but spoke English like a native Australian. Her tone was friendly, which contradicted the topic she brought up immediately after asking me where in the US I was from.

“Missouri,” I corrected her after she asked if I knew Renee Good or Alex Pretti personally. “Minnesota is much, much colder.”

I believe she entered the conversation with good intentions—she didn't want to overshadow my memories of all the wonderful experiences in Phayao that day by talking about the horrific events in my home country (even though, thankfully, they didn't take place in my home state). Thankfully, while this is my first memory of Phayao, it's not the one that brings me the most joy.

Getting to (and getting around in) Phayao

The bad news? There's no direct route from Bangkok to Phayao. The fastest way is to travel from Bangkok (BKK or DMK) to Chiang Rai (CEI) and then continue overland for about 100 minutes. Alternatively (and ideally), explore Chiang Rai and the Golden Triangle before traveling to Phayao. This reduces the door-to-door travel time to under two hours.

In both cases, however, another problem arises: How do you get from A to B in Phayao Province once you reach Phayao City? Of course, you could book a car with a driver through your hotel. From personal experience, however, I know that having your own vehicle is the safest solution. Unless you're an experienced motorcyclist, I would definitely recommend a car.

Things to do in Phayao

Starting at Phayao Lake

Phayao Lake forms the heart of the city and province (both touristically and geographically), so I recommend starting here. The Naga statues of Phayao make excellent landmarks for your GPS. They add a unique cultural dimension to the beautiful natural scenery and are deeply connected to the mythological foundations of northern and northeastern Thailand.

(End here too)

I don't want to give away any spoilers with this Phayao itinerary, but in this case, I simply have to. It's important that if you start your sightseeing tour at the lakefront, you're also prepared to end it there—and especially at the Naga statues. These beautifully frame the changing colors of the sky; plus, they're conveniently located near street stalls and restaurants.

Take a boat to Wat Tilok Aram

To briefly return to the morning: You can actually walk from the statues along the shore to the boat dock of Wat Tilok Aram. Honestly, the journey there (the boat trip) is more impressive than the destination itself. It's more of an island than a temple; the central ritual involves buying and releasing fish, which has never really appealed to me. On the other hand, I always appreciate the opportunity to get some fresh air.

Get out of the city!

Speaking of fresh air, many of my other favorite things to do in Phayao are just outside the town center. These include the beautiful Phu Sang Waterfall and the Burmese-style Wat Nantaram temple, both located northeast of the town center and easily visited in an afternoon. You can also drive (or hitchhike) to the opposite side of the lake, where Wat Analayothipyaram is located, whose surreal charm (I promise!) is much easier to understand than its name suggests.

(And go even further)

If you have plenty of time during your trip to Thailand, you could spend several days in Phayao and explore the province even more thoroughly than I did, including experiencing a sunrise on Phu Langkha, which I unfortunately haven't yet had the chance to do. Alternatively, you could continue your journey to another destination, whether east to Nan (which is perhaps even more underrated than Phayao), west to Lampang or Chiang Mai, or north to Chiang Rai.

Should you stay overnight in Phayao?

Phayao isn't too far from Chiang Rai. With your own car or the option to hire a car with a driver, a day trip would theoretically be possible. Whether you want to visit the night market or simply enjoy the sunset at Phayao Lake, I think there are good reasons to spend at least one night in Phayao, even if there isn't ultimately as much to do compared to other places in northern Thailand.

Regardless of how many days you spend in Phayao, choosing the right accommodation is perhaps even more important. I myself changed my booking at the last minute and stayed at the centrally located (albeit sparsely furnished) Baan Ma Grud Hotel, which turned out to be a good decision. The family who owned it were among the friendliest I met in Thailand. Should I return, it would definitely be my first and only choice.

Other frequently asked questions about visiting Phayao

What is there to do in Phayao?

As expected, much in Phayao (at least in Phayao City) revolves around Lake Phayao, quite literally. But the province has much more to offer, from the natural wonder of Phu Sang Waterfall to the Burmese-style temple Wat Nantaram.

What is Phayao known for?

Phayao, insofar as it is known at all, is primarily known for Phayao Lake. And therein lies the crucial point: Phayao is hardly known among tourists, especially Westerners. Much of its appeal lies precisely in its obscurity, which is far more important for the travel experience than any sight or activity.

Is Phayao worth a visit?

Phayao is definitely worth a visit, whether you stay in the town and take a boat to Wat Tilok Aram to enjoy the sunset over Phayao Lake, or explore attractions in the rural province of Phayao such as Phu Sang Waterfall and the Burmese-style Wat Nantaram. Phayao is the epitome of "off-the-beaten-path Thailand".

Conclusion

Many of Phayao's sights are less well-known, which makes perfect sense: Phayao is probably the least touristy province in northern Thailand and one of the most authentic places in the entire country. Even the supposed "must-sees" like Wat Tilok Aram – indeed, even Phayao Lake itself – are true hidden gems and less famous than comparable sites in Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai. Nevertheless, Phayao is definitely worth a visit, especially as part of a tour of other underrated places in the former Lanna Kingdom, such as Lampang and Nan. Do you need help planning your trip? I would be happy to organize your Thailand trip for you.