Why should you go there and how do you do it right?

Lunch here is a race against time. Khao Soi Khun Yai is a khao soi shop open only at lunchtime, located in a shaded courtyard at Soi Sri Poom 8, just inside the northern moat of the old city, opposite Wat Khuan Kha Ma and about 100 meters across from Wat Lok Moli. The entrance looks like a driveway to the temple grounds. It's open Monday to Saturday from 10:00 AM to 2:00 PM, closed on Sundays. Since the pots are often empty before closing time, it's advisable to arrive before 1:00 PM.

The menu is short, which I take as a good sign. There's khao soi with chicken or beef and a tom yam noodle soup, each served with a side of pickled mustard greens, shallots, lime, and roasted chili for seasoning. The coconut curry broth is rich without overpowering the noodles, and the crispy noodle nest on top stays crispy. According to current information, a bowl costs around 40 to 60 baht—a typical street food price for one of the best versions in town.

Don't expect comfort. You share benches with strangers, eat, and leave – reservations are not possible. It's only a short walk from Chang Phueak Gate, so a visit to Wat Lok Moli on the other side of the moat is a good option.