I created this Chiang Rai travel guide as a token of my love for this city. I love this underrated gem so much that it's the main reason I travel to northern Thailand.

Quite apart from that, the scenery of the nearby Golden Triangle is hard to beat when it comes to iconic places in Thailand. (From a traveler's perspective, I consider Chiang Rai and the Golden Triangle to be one and the same, even though they offer very different experiences.)

During my journey through Chiang Rai, I'll explain how to make the most of your time there and share personal anecdotes about why I love this part of Thailand so much. I'll also address the age-old Chiang Mai vs. Chiang Rai debate – something you won't want to miss.

Accommodation in Chiang Rai

Besides all the other things I'll describe in my Chiang Rai travel guide, what I particularly love about the city (and the province) is how homey it feels. This was evident from my very first arrival when I checked into Baan Jaru. Run by a local family on the same property as their home, the hotel combines the best features of a boutique hotel with those of private accommodation – right in the heart of the city. If possible, book the bungalow!

Should it not be available, of course, you don't need to worry. Many simple hotels in Chiang Rai are also welcoming and comfortable. This applies, for example, to more modest accommodations such as Le Patta Chiang Rai, one of the best hotels I have ever stayed in in Thailand, and the Mora Boutique Hotel, which combines five-star luxury with a down-to-earth and never stuffy atmosphere. Now let's move on to activities in Chiang Rai.

Things to do in and around Chiang Rai

Start with "White, Black and Blue".

Begin your journey with a trip to Wat Rong Khun, also known as the "White Temple" of Chiang Rai, located just south of the city. While you can reach it by public transport, I recommend taking a day taxi: this will allow you to travel directly north to Baan Daam, the "Black House," and then a little further south to the "Blue Temple," Wat Rong Suea Ten. (TIP: Round off your spiritual morning with lunch at the fabulous Chivit Thamma Da!)

Watch as the bell tower is illuminated.

The Chiang Rai Clock Tower is probably the easiest attraction to reach in Chiang Rai. Located right in the city center – if you arrive before dark, enjoy an authentic Khao Soi curry at the nearby Four Stars restaurant while you wait – this gleaming monument is spectacularly illuminated. Another worthwhile attraction nearby is the northern Chinese-style Wat Jet Yod temple.

Explore the Golden Triangle

Technically, you can reach the Golden Triangle from Chiang Rai using public transport. A bus will take you from the city center to Mae Sai, near the Burmese border. There, you can take a songthaew (shared taxi) to the Saam Liam Trong Kham Monument. From there, you might need to hitchhike to Chiang Saen, a town on the Mekong River, where you can stop for a break before heading back to Chiang Rai. Alternatively, you could simply take a taxi for the day.

Experience the sunset behind the Goddess of Mercy statue.

By the way, I apologize that a private car is the easiest (and in many cases the only) way to tick off certain points in my Chiang Rai guidebook. On the other hand, the relative remoteness of places like Wat Huay Pla Kang, a huge seated Guan Yin statue located about a 20-minute drive from the city, is precisely what makes them so appealing. The best sunset view is from the pagoda right next to the Lady Buddha statue!

Visit a coffee or tea plantation

Whether you choose to visit a coffee farm in Chiang Rai or one of the province's tea plantations is entirely up to you. My personal favorite among the coffee farms is Doi Chaang (named after the well-known Thai coffee chain), which can be perfectly combined with a hike to Khun Korn Waterfall. For tea lovers, I recommend Choui Fong, which, like all coffee farms, is only accessible by private car, ideally arranged through your hotel.

Chiang Rai vs. Chiang Mai

I don't want to delve into philosophical discussions now – I won't be answering questions like "Is Chiang Mai worth a visit?" – but I do think it's important to compare these two cities. If only because they're often lumped together (for good reason, but also for convenience), and because I definitely have a preference as to which of the two cities is better to visit when traveling through Northern Thailand. Can you guess which one?

Of course, not everything in Chiang Rai is fantastic and Chiang Mai completely uninteresting – quite the opposite. I love the many temples in Chiang Mai's old city and the numerous opportunities to experience elephants in an ethically responsible way, to name just two examples. Nevertheless, I find that the authentic energy of Chiang Rai is hard to find in Chiang Mai.

Other travel destinations in Northern Thailand

Whether you travel from Chiang Mai to Lampang or head for even wilder destinations like Nan and Phayao, Northern Thailand truly begins in well-known cities like Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai. Once the Kingdom of Lanna and an independent, powerful nation during the time when modern Thailand was taking shape in Sukhothai, the region boasts a distinct culture (and cuisine) compared to the rest of Thailand.

After a stay in northern Thailand, a trip south towards Sukhothai is a good option (which geographically, though not culturally, belongs more to central Thailand than to the north). Read my article on whether a visit to Isaan is worthwhile to find out if, on the other hand, after your trip to Chiang Rai you might prefer to explore the underrated, rugged, and adventurous northeastern region of Thailand.

Other frequently asked questions about traveling to Chiang Rai

How many days does one need in Chiang Rai?

I recommend planning at least two full days in Chiang Rai. This will give you time to spend a day in the city center, explore the White, Black, and Blue Temple Trail, and enjoy the sunset behind the historic clock tower before trying a delicious Khao Soi soup. You can spend the second day either exploring the Golden Triangle or heading there early in the morning to experience your second sunset at Wat Huay Pla Kang, home to the giant Guan Yin statue.

Is Chiang Rai worth a visit?

Chiang Rai is my favorite city in Northern Thailand – I can absolutely recommend it. Even if you're not fascinated by extraordinary architecture like the surreal White Temple or the macabre Black House, you'll love the spicy, delicately spiced cuisine and the breathtaking landscapes of the Golden Triangle on any Chiang Rai holiday.

Is Chiang Rai expensive?

Chiang Rai is one of the most affordable travel destinations in Thailand – it's truly inexpensive. Budget travelers can easily get by in Chiang Rai on around 1,000 baht (approximately US$30) per day. For US$100 per person per night, however, you can get a luxury hotel and travel primarily by taxi and private transfer. In many ways, Chiang Rai resembles Chiang Mai from 15-20 years ago, and that's still how it's perceived today.

Conclusion

Whether you're looking for a detailed guidebook to Chiang Rai or have simply been wondering if the city is worth a visit, I'm sure you've found your answer. From the temples and Khao Soi shops in the city center to the enchanting river landscapes of the Golden Triangle, this underrated (but easily accessible) part of Northern Thailand deserves to be much better known. On the other hand, I'm quite happy that I (and now probably you too) have it almost entirely to myself—or rather, to the two of us, if you decide to come as well. Make the most of Chiang Rai and the entire Kingdom of Thailand by having a tailor-made Thailand trip planned for you.