Travel writer John Borthwick takes us on a guided tour through Bangkok's creative waterfront district.

I could laze around for hours like a wannabe rajah, watching the all-day activity on the Chao Phraya River with its barges, ferries, and meandering longboats. However, it would be far better to explore the waterfront bars and galleries in Bangkok's modern creative district.

Narrow alleyways, known as "sois," lined with traditional two-story shophouses, lead from the historic Charoen Krung Road down to the river. Along these alleyways, local artists and entrepreneurs have transformed a grimy auto parts district into a fascinating neighborhood with street art, hidden bars, and quaint restaurants.

The creative district is just a short walk from the Saphan Taksin BTS station or the Si Phraya ferry terminal. I head there and explore the area north of Soi 44 to Soi 30. Here's a little glimpse into my discoveries.

Sarnies Café, Soi 44. Yes, "Sarnies"—like the old Australian slang for sandwich. A formerly run-down boat repair shop has been transformed into a trendy snack bar. Like the original Sarnies in Singapore, this corner shop is all about good coffee and the culinary creations that arise when Thai ingredients meet Australian cuisine.

Jack's Bar. Soi 42. Jack's Bar, literally a pub at the end of the street, overlooks the "River of Kings" at the end of Soi 42, also known as Wat Suan Phlu. Imagine plastic chairs, cold beer, and a hot afternoon winding down into sunset. Add to that spicy food and another refreshing sundowner.

Harmonique, Soi 34. The traditional Harmonique restaurant is tucked away behind a barely visible doorway. Inside, a huge banyan tree provides shade for stone tables and Chinese lanterns. The menu offers Thai and international dishes, but the ambiance is the real highlight.

Hidden milk bar. Soi 32. This curious place, I'm told, is a Thai photographer's interpretation of an Australian milk bar who lived in Australia. They serve shakes, drinks, and snacks, but I keep missing the opening hours, which only adds to the mystique.

BUKRUK Wall Art, Soi 32 to 28. As part of the BUKRUK Urban Art Festival 2016 in Bangkok, artists from all over the world were invited to create street art here. Stroll through the interconnected sois and be surprised by the colorful works.

House No. 1, Soi 30. This neoclassical building, dating from 1900 and located on Captain Bush Lane, was Siam's first official postal address. It once housed the trading company of Louis T. Leonowens, the Washington-born son of Anna Leonowens—famous (or infamous) for "The King and I." Not open to the public.

The Vhils street mural in Soi 30. Portugal's elegant riverside embassy, ​​built in 1820, is the oldest diplomatic residence in Thailand. In 2017, the Portuguese artist Vhils was given free rein to paint the long street facade of the embassy, ​​thus securing himself a brilliant place in the history of mural painting.

Warehouse 30, Soi 30. Seven renovated warehouses between Sois 32 and 30 form the heart of this creative district, housing boutiques, galleries, cafes, and coworking spaces. Don't miss the shop that looks like an army surplus store and is crammed with vintage clothing, music, and all sorts of memorabilia.

ATT 19 Gallery, Soi 30. An innovative family has transformed this century-old former Chinese school building into a multifunctional space for retail, art, and exhibitions. Design and fashion, as well as exhibitions by emerging artists, define the scene behind the old teak and brick walls. And providing the necessary livelihood is the BAAB – the Bad Ass Asia Bar.

Jua, Soi 28. Tucked away in a dark alley in a former casino, Jua Bar specializes in artisan sake and tapas and bills itself as an "American take on a traditional Japanese yakitori restaurant." Why not stop by? Baan Rim Naam, Soi 22. Situated right on the riverbank, this revitalized 19th-century warehouse is the perfect spot for a relaxed afternoon drink or simply to watch the river flow by. In the evening, it transforms into a more upscale establishment with a selection of Thai tapas, cocktails, and classic dishes, so be sure to book in advance.