As tourism picked up again, guest author John Borthwick took the opportunity and flew with Thai Airways on the new direct flight from Sydney to Phuket. Here's a brief glimpse into his experiences.

Phuket is back. More precisely: Phuket visitors are back. The Old Town is bustling with life and Patong is in full swing. Kayaking is fantastic and Phang Nga Bay remains a paradise on earth. Experience some of these Phuket moments.

Mangrove kayaking

Phuket Marine National Park in the far north offers the island's best, most affordable, and probably least-known adventure: a kayaking trip through the waterways of the Thachatchai mangrove forest is an unforgettable experience. Supporting mangrove roots line the channels you paddle through, while water crows watch your progress. You can hire a guide and a kayak directly at the park headquarters.

Elephant sanctuary

Tourist attractions like elephant riding, painting elephant trunks, and other forms of animal cruelty are a thing of the past. "Look, but don't touch" is the motto in ethical Thai sanctuaries like the Phuket Elephant Sanctuary Park. A 500-meter-long elevated walkway allows visitors to observe the sanctuary's twelve rescued elephants as they roam, eat, and bathe. Guided tours of the 12-hectare grounds and comprehensive educational programs are offered.

temple

The most important structure is Wat Chalong, Phuket's largest and most visited shrine. It houses a bone fragment said to be from the historical Buddha. A 60-meter-high sacred chedi tower rises above the complex. The island wouldn't be Thailand without at least a dozen temples, so keep your eyes peeled: there's likely a wat, and almost certainly a shrine, near your accommodation.

beaches

With 50 km of Andaman Sea beaches stretching from headland to headland, Phuket is guaranteed to have a beach you'll love – unless you're allergic to sand. Patong Beach was and remains one of the island's first tourist magnets, but the further north you travel along the west coast, the more secluded and beautiful the beaches become. Northern Phuket is a world apart from the traffic and shopping malls elsewhere, and it's here that you'll find Mai Khao Beach. It stretches seemingly endlessly – or perhaps even 11 km – and is the longest and most beautiful beach on the island.

Phang Nga Bay

Phuket's east coast borders this idyllic bay, one of the most beautiful bodies of water in the world. Much of it is a national park, where karst islands of limestone drift in the water like sleeping sea monsters. The Phi Phi Islands are always busy, but their breathtaking Maya Bay is now protected from mass tourism. The two neighboring islands of Koh Yao are quiet and tranquil, offering high-quality resorts and inviting visitors to extend their stay by another week.

Phuket Old Town

History was written here long before the island was "discovered" by beachgoers and tourism agents 50 years ago. Once an important hub for trading ships from the East and Europe, Phuket's Old Town still preserves this past. Nestled among 19th-century Sino-Portuguese commercial buildings on Phang Nga Road is the elegant Tu Kab Khao restaurant, which offers traditional Peranakan and Thai dishes as well as family recipes like spiced crab.

pedestrian zone

Phuket Walking Street is a Sunday evening market that takes over the historic Thalang Road in the Old Town. Sample southern Thai specialties and pick up some local handicrafts as souvenirs. The market is family-friendly, with toy stalls and street musicians. If you have the chance, stop by one of the new, stylish bars and try a cocktail made with Chalong Bay Rum.

Museums

Known as the "Pearl of the Andaman Sea," Phuket transformed itself in the last century from an insignificant tin-mining province into a prosperous tourist center. A symbol of this transformation is the three-story Art Deco house Baan Ah-Jor (Great-Grandparents' House) in the north of the island. Built in 1936 by a tin-mining entrepreneur, the villa has been meticulously restored and now houses a private museum offering insights into the daily life of a wealthy Thai-Chinese family in the 1930s. A visit to the museum followed by a meal at the excellent "Red Table" restaurant is highly recommended.

Text and images copyright John Borthwick ©2022.