Before I started looking for activities in Nakhon Si Thammarat, my search queries were of a more general nature.

My original plan was to split this trip between Narathiwat and Pattani, two predominantly Muslim provinces on Thailand's border with Malaysia. However, this caused fear and concern among my local friends. I assumed it was due to Islamophobia, but further research revealed something else: sectarian violence in Thailand's far south has intensified in recent years.

Discouraged, I turned to my old friend Google. "Most authentic place in southern Thailand," I typed in and pressed enter.

I had expected a long and arduous search, but the first sentence of the first page I clicked on contained the only three words I had to read: "Unadulterated Southern Thailand".

“Nakhon Si Thammarat too,” I sighed with relief, then opened a new tab and booked my ticket right there.

Accommodation in Nakhon Si Thammarat

Nothing is more typically Thai than someone who arrives so late you wonder if they're even coming. And that's exactly what happened: when the owner of Tree Home Plus in downtown Nakhon Si Thammarat called to let me know he'd arrived at the airport, the taxi I'd ordered in his absence was already waiting in front of the boutique hotel. (TIP: Patience is definitely a must in Nakhon Si Thammarat!)

Despite this somewhat questionable first impression, Tree Home offered the perfect balance between a relaxed atmosphere and luxurious comfort, appearing both stylish and a little rustic (there were ants in the room, but only a few). Above all, it was an ideal base for exploring the province of Nakhon Si Thammarat in all its unspoiled splendor.

My favorite activities in Nakhon Si Thammarat

Explore the city center

Once I'd settled into the treehouse, there were still a few hours of daylight left, so I quickly set off with my camera. It took me about 15 minutes to walk to Ratchadamnoen Road, the city's main street where most of the sights are located. I started at the old city wall, which dates back to the late 13th century when Nakhon Si Thammarat became an important outpost of the Srivijaya Empire. I walked briskly to the City Pillar and then to the Salahuddin Mosque, planning to watch the sunset from Wat Phra Mahatat.

Discover local faces and flavors

Instead, I found myself at the intersection of Ratachadamnoen Road and Panead Road, fascinated by the minaret-topped high bridge that loomed above it. I was amazed that someone had thought to give such elaborate decorations to an otherwise unremarkable structure. The human side of Nakhon Si Thammarat also fascinated and delighted me: from the watermelon vendor who asked me for a photo, to the group of schoolchildren who asked me for help practicing their English (and then simply said "hello" dozens of times), to the waitress I begged to bring me extremely spicy Gaeng Leuang Pla, even though my blue eyes betrayed that I couldn't handle it.

Travel up the coast

On the other hand, a place in Thailand is only as "authentic" as its beaches. I decided that Khanom, about 90 minutes away by minibus (or motorbike, if you can manage that – I can't), would be the best place to explore the beaches of Nakhon Si Thammarat. Arriving in Khanom, I took a motorbike taxi, and the driver dropped me off at a run-down beach hut where two white girls were drinking frozen cocktails. As it turned out, they were not only the only foreigners I saw on the beach that day, but also the only people I encountered for almost an hour – apart from a man in a fishing boat far out at sea.

Swim at… unique beaches

At first glance, it's understandable why Nakhon Si Thammarat hasn't become a second Phuket or Koh Samui. While the palm-fringed coastline with its shell-covered white sand is beautiful, the water is often murky and sometimes muddy brown. On the other hand, in my opinion, the world's most beautiful beaches are characterized by seclusion and tranquility, and Khanom offers both to an extent I've found almost nowhere else in the world, perhaps with the exception of Iceland's frozen beaches. Beaches are a good example of the many leisure activities available in Nakhon Si Thammarat.

Hunt waterfalls and search for orchids.

Khao Luang National Park is home to the highest mountain in southern Thailand (which is, of course, also called Khao Luang). Naturally, I hadn't planned on climbing a mountain over a weekend. Instead, I went on a trip with the owner of Tree Home to Krung Ching Waterfall, which, to be honest, I wasn't expecting much from. I certainly hadn't anticipated that the trail would be in a near-life-threatening condition in several places. The hike took about 90 minutes each way. The waterfall itself, however, was truly majestic, as were the wild orchids that sprouted from the dozens of pools at its base. Their presence didn't surprise me—the national park is as famous for its more than 300 species of orchids as it is for Khao Luang itself—but I was amazed by their splendor.

How long should one spend in Nakhon Si Thammarat?

“That would be an interesting alternative,” I laughed, imagining myself single-handedly revolutionizing the global houseplant industry. Robert Schrader – orchid hunter. Seriously though, on the way back to the city, I reflected on the time I had spent here in unspoiled southern Thailand and how much I had gotten for my money. Were three days in Nakhon Si Thammarat too much, too little, or just right?

At first glance, the range of activities in Nakhon Si Thammarat (at least from the perspective of traditional tourism) may not seem particularly extensive. On the other hand, given the large distances between the city center and the surrounding attractions, as well as the inadequate public transport, it is difficult to imagine that a trip to Nakhon Si Thammarat province (at least one that includes excursions outside the city center) would take less than two to three days.

Is Nakhon Si Thammarat worth visiting?

This leads to an even bigger question: Should one even visit Nakhon Si Thammarat? Personally, I had always had my eye on other provinces in southern Thailand, which I didn't visit for safety reasons – to this day, I'm not sure if those concerns were justified. Of course, it would be foolish of me to deny that my trip to Nakhon Si Thammarat had a certain value and that my experiences there were unique.

I can say with certainty that Nakhon Si Thammarat is neither a typical nor even a second-rate tourist destination in Thailand. At best, this province is worth a visit if you've already been to Thailand half a dozen times and need a break from the tourist hotspots in the lush north and idyllic south. Nakhon Si Thammarat is not for the faint of heart or for those unfamiliar with the rigors of traveling in Thailand.

Other frequently asked questions about visiting Nakhon Si Thammarat

Is Nakhon Si Thammarat safe?

Nakhon Si Thammarat is largely free of violent crime, like most of Thailand outside the predominantly Muslim south, where terrorist attacks by insurgents are rare. However, Nakhon Si Thammarat has some of Thailand's most dangerous streets; stray and feral dogs can be aggressive and pose a risk of rabies or painful bites.

How do you get to Nakhon Si Thammarat?

Although Nakhon Si Thammarat can theoretically be reached by land from Phuket and other locations in southern Thailand, the only realistic way to get there from Bangkok is by plane. Flights depart several times daily from Don Mueang Airport in Bangkok.

Are there any beautiful beaches in Nakhon Si Thammarat?

Compared to the rest of Thailand, the beaches in and north of Nakhon Si Thammarat are rather unremarkable. However, for those staying in the province who desperately need some sea air, a morning or afternoon on the coast of Khanom is just the thing.

Conclusion

Whether you're looking for charming towns, secluded beaches, unusual national parks, or simply want to escape mass tourism, Nakhon Si Thammarat is unpretentious, understated, and authentic. I expect Nakhon Si Thammarat to become increasingly popular over time (and the range of activities there to become correspondingly more diverse and varied) as more and more people want to discover authentic places in Thailand. However, the lack of English speakers, the inadequate tourist infrastructure, and the limited number of spectacular sights are likely to deter most tourists. Do you, like me, want to explore unspoiled southern Thailand? Then let us create your own personalized Thailand trip!