Sam Pan Bok means "the 3,000 holes." There must be more, but I didn't count them! It's a rocky section of the Mekong rapids that has been eroded by the swirling water during the rainy season, forming holes, or "bok" (a Lao word for deep holes). There's one section that villagers nickname "the Grand Canyon of Siam" (the old name for Thailand), but it's much smaller. Also, the photos of Sam Pan Bok you see—including mine—are generally a bit misleading, as they play with different perspectives to make everything look more impressive. The tours offered by local guides involve taking photos from these perspectives, making the result look more incredible than it actually is—but it's really fun! In reality, the place is beautiful, but not particularly impressive. The best time to visit Kaeng Sam Pan Bok is from December to May. From July to the end of October, the holes are flooded. Among the remarkable holes and rock formations are a rock shaped like a dog's head, as well as holes shaped like hearts and Mickey Mouse. A visit to Sam Phan Bok is best in the early morning or late evening when the heat is more bearable. There are no trees or shade; although the desert landscape is crisscrossed with water, it can get very hot!

Entry to Sam Phan Bok is free during the dry season. From July to the end of October, the most interesting part is usually flooded. Local tourists mainly visit Sam Phan Bok on weekends, which is why it gets very crowded then. A ride in a songthaew (shared taxi) with a guide to the fascinating rock formations costs 200 THB per vehicle (maximum 8 people). On weekends and holidays, local children lead the tours, while on weekdays, souvenir vendors do. A weekday visit is recommended, as you'll usually have the place to yourself. The tour lasts about 1.5 hours. Boat tours are also offered, but in my opinion, they are less interesting as they don't take you to the most famous rock formations and caves – and these are the heart of Sam Phan Bok. The boat trip costs 500 THB per boat. Ideally, you would do both, which would take about 3 hours. Sam Pan Bok is best visited early in the morning or late in the evening when the heat is more bearable, as there are no trees – it's a desert landscape without shade. The new arrival point is quite far from the actual destination, so the songthaew service is very convenient and inexpensive – so definitely use it! The songthaews park in front of the sign. In the parking area where you arrive, there are several stalls selling souvenirs and drinks, as well as a snack bar.

To reach Sam Pan Bok, private transport is recommended, as there is no direct bus service from Ubon Ratchathani. Even if you can take a public bus to Pho Sai (20 km away), finding a tuk-tuk or other transport to Sam Pan Bok from there is uncertain, especially due to the language barrier. Furthermore, the journey by public transport is very long, making a round trip on the same day virtually impossible. Traveling by bus from Khemmarat seems easier, but this should be double-checked. Alternatively, there are several resorts in the area that can organize your trip and provide an overnight stay.

How to get there

How do you get to Sam Pan Bok? Private transport is recommended to reach Sam Pan Bok, as there is no direct bus service from Ubon Ratchathani. Even if you can take a public bus to Pho Sai (20 km away), finding a tuk-tuk or other transport to Sam Pan Bok from there is uncertain, especially due to the language barrier. Furthermore, the journey by public transport is very long, making a round trip on the same day virtually impossible. Traveling by bus from Khemmarat seems easier, but this should be double-checked. Alternatively, there are several resorts in the area that organize excursions and offer accommodation.