Koh Kood is located in the southern province of Trat. Visitors can now experience a two-day, one-night stay with a Thai host family for just $50, which includes getting to know the local cuisine, cycling tours, and trying out handicrafts, as travel writer John Borthwick discovered.

"Please refrain from wearing revealing clothing," reads the welcome sign in the village of Ban Nam Chiew. With this, this unique Thai-Muslim-Chinese community asks its visitors not to dress as provocatively or revealingly as one might on a beach in Phuket.

The fishing village on the riverbank lies in the southeastern province of Trat on the Gulf of Thailand, about 300 km from Bangkok. Tourism coordinator Khun Noi and her team are preparing sweet and savory crackers on a hot griddle. They add coconut milk and tapioca, sprinkle everything with brown sugar and shallots – and, of course, with that unmistakable Thai flair. The delicious, crispy bites disappear in no time, before you can even say "More!"

The village, with its 1,500 inhabitants, has recently embraced homestay tourism. Visitors like us can enjoy a two-day, one-night stay with a host family for less than $50 per person, which includes getting to know (and enjoy) the local cuisine, bike rides, and trying out local crafts.

We continue our journey to the island of Koh Kood (also called Ko Kut), located in the Gulf of Cambodia, closer to Cambodia than to Bangkok. Our ferry docks in Ao Salat, a bay lined with trawlers, lobster traps, geranium baskets, nets, and all the essential signs of a community whose way of life has not been displaced by tourism.

Koh Kood is Thailand's fourth largest island and offers excellent resorts and diving opportunities. It also has plenty to offer visitors seeking a more relaxed experience. Most of the hilly, densely forested island belongs to the Royal Thai Navy, and its coastline remains largely untouched.

At Analay Reef off the west coast, the seabed is sandy and the crystal-clear water is only 10 meters deep. We dive for an hour amidst healthy coral and impressive boulders. Later, we paddle kayaks upstream to Khlong Chao, a pristine mangrove channel that opens onto rocks and a waterfall. Further out, more challenging dives await us at Koh Maak and in Koh Rang National Park, all part of the Koh Chang archipelago.

Koh Kood offers jungle, beaches, tranquility, and even luxury. There are around 50 accommodations, mainly on the west coast, ranging from simple lodges to ultra-luxurious hotels. Ao Salat, the Pirate's Cove, named after the pirates who once sought refuge there, inspired a local chain of four-star resorts named Peter Pan, Captain Hook, and Tinkerbell.

The stunning Soneva Kiri Resort, located on the northern tip of the 25-km-long island, is as luxurious as one could wish for. Its aesthetic, reminiscent of a beach vacation for billionaires, is evident in the harmonious combination of sun-bleached wood, pavilions, and elegant viewing platforms overlooking paradise—or at least the neighboring island of Koh Kood. And then there are the handmade chocolates…

On the island's southwest coast lies Cham's House Resort, directly on Haad Takien beach. White sand, a deserted beach, clear waves. An ideal place for romantics, singles, families, and anyone who appreciates a tropical beach without karaoke or noisy bars next door.

This fragrant island, with its maritime pines, the smoke of wood, and fireflies, may be undeveloped and somewhat difficult to reach, but that's precisely what makes it so appealing. Not all the roads are paved. There's only one town, and apart from a few beach bars and fire dances, there's hardly any nightlife. But there is plenty of "porn"—a noble Thai word that can mean "gift," "grace," or "blessing." All true.

Getting there: Bangkok Airways flies daily from Bangkok to Trat. From there, it's a 50 km drive to Laem Sok Pier in Trat. A one-hour ferry ride (approx. 500 Baht, about US$20) will take you to Koh Kood Pier for your transfer to the resort. Alternatively, you can also take a ferry from Koh Chang.

Season: The hottest months are April to August, the coolest November to February. Monsoon season lasts from mid-May to mid-October.

Getting around: There is practically no public transportation and taxis are scarce. Many visitors use rented motorbikes, which cost around US$12 per day. Arranging a pick-up service through your resort is recommended.

Further information: www.bangkokair.com; www.homestaythai; www.chamshouse.com; [email protected]; www.kohkood.com