John Borthwick, long-time author of the blog “Amazing Thailand”, shares his best tips for the historic Chao Phraya River in Bangkok.
Bang Krachao – Just half a kilometer across the Chao Phraya River from Bangkok's skyscrapers lie the mangroves of Bang Krachao, yet it feels like another continent. An oasis in a river tributary, Bang Krachao isn't actually an island. Join the Bangkokians who flock to the market on Sunday mornings to buy food, drinks, and handicrafts, or rent a bicycle to explore the elevated walkways and sights like the ancient temple Wat Bang Kor Bua. Accommodation is limited, but it's a worthwhile day trip. thethailandlife.com
Kudijeen: On the west bank of the river (the "Thonburi side") lies the historic enclave of Kudijeen – also known as Kudichin – where Portuguese traders, missionaries, and mercenaries settled in the 16th century, becoming the first Europeans to do so in Siam. The architecture and a unique pastry have been preserved to this day. Kudijeen ("village of Chinese shrines") consists of narrow lanes and old teakwood houses, including the historic Baan Kudichin Family Museum. The domed Santa Cruz Church, built in 1770, and Wat Prayurawongsawat temple, with its 60-meter-high stupa spire, are open to all visitors. Be sure to visit one of the family bakeries offering the traditional cake, Kanom Farang – "foreigner's sweet." baankudichinmuseum.com
National Museum of Royal Barges – The most beautiful boathouse in the world. Here, the fleet of the Thai crown, with its gilded, 40-meter-long vessels, is housed. The term "barge" hardly does justice to these works of art with their swan-neck prows and mythological figureheads. Only rarely do they glide across the water for the extraordinary Royal Barge Procession, in which a flotilla of 52 boats, rowed by singing sailors, passes the Grand Palace and its golden temples reminiscent of Camelot. The museum, located in the Bangkok Noi district on the west bank of the river, displays eight intricately crafted vessels; watch, fascinated, as the craftsmen work on their maintenance.
Jack's Bar, Jack's little shack at the end of Soi 42/1 Charoen Krung, is on the verge of being discovered. On a hot afternoon, you can sit on a church pew with a cold beer, some spicy snacks, a gentle breeze, and the longtail boats gliding along the river. Why would you ever want to leave? There's a wine list and a food menu for everyone, and live music in the evenings. A parrot sits—as is customary here—on the cashier's shoulder. Seating for about 30 people. Open from noon to midnight. Jack's is a ten-minute walk north of the Saphan Taksin BTS station and right next to the Shangri-La Hotel: a typical Bangkok contrast.
Warehouse 30 – A series of old warehouses in the Bang Rak river district has been transformed into galleries, design studios, and trendy shops. Here you can find everything: art, craft beer, coffee, home accessories, books, and streetwear. The absolute eye-catcher is Horse Unit & Woot Woot – the name is a mystery – the shop looks like the world's most fashionable army surplus store. A veritable hodgepodge of vintage military clothing, antique toys, records, jeans, and furniture. Nostalgic, ironic, and simply fantastic! Warehouse 30 stretches between Sois 30 and 32 of Charoen Krung Road. warehouse30.com
Loy La Long – This tiny hotel is tucked away among the piers on the eastern bank of the river. Its name means something like "Let it be, let it go, let it flow." The hundred-year-old, two-story teakwood house, a former warehouse, sits right on the River of Kings and offers six guest rooms, creatively decorated in a blend of retro-funk and steampunk styles. Two sunny terraces overlooking the river invite you to dine, drink, or simply daydream. Opposite, on the other side of the river, is a Chinese pagoda, and – surprisingly (or perhaps not – we are in Thailand after all) – this unique boutique hotel is located on the grounds of a Buddhist monastery. loylalong.com
A river cruise: Even better than being on the banks is being on the Chao Phraya River. The best public transport option on the Chao Phraya is the Smart Ferry, an electric catamaran with room for up to 250 passengers. You can easily board at Sathon Pier next to the Saphan Taksin BTS station (minesmartferry.com). For other river experiences, there are plenty of options: from neon-lit dinner boats with lively music to the elegant, converted Manohra boats of Anantara Riverside. This two-hour river cruise, complete with excellent Thai cuisine and occasional commentary, is a truly special experience (manohracruises.com).
Meanwhile, the commuter ferries dock at the piers at breakneck speed – almost like a Formula 1 pit stop. For a more leisurely experience, take the Chao Phraya Tourist Boats, a ferry service with commentary that stops at all the important piers of historical sites. The Sathon pier is also a good starting point for this service. chaophrayatouristboat.com
The ThreeSixty Rooftop Bar in Bangkok's Central Business District (CBD) is a true paradise for rooftop enthusiasts. Located on the Thonburi side of the river, 31 stories above the city's vibrant life, it offers breathtaking panoramic views of both districts and, of course, the river itself. The ThreeSixty Rooftop Bar and Jazz Lounge at the Millennium Hilton is the perfect place for relaxed cocktail evenings, often accompanied by the smooth jazz sounds of a live singer. hilton.com

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