When I think of Thailand's old capital – its first, but not its most famous – Sukhothai, many images come to mind. But even before all these images, I remember the croak of a bullfrog right outside the window of my guesthouse.

The noise was as loud as a rock concert, amplified by the walls of the ditch where the animal rested; the teak walls of the room where I slept, for their part, couldn't dampen a single sound wave. It might as well have been screaming right in my ear.

Apparently, I've spent two sleepless nights compiling this list of tips for Sukhothai. The frog, by the way, has too – I'll openly admit it, I've tried to kill it several times. But I digress.

Accommodation in Sukhothai

To get straight to the point: there's no way to specifically search for hotels in Sukhothai that are free of bullfrogs. It's quite possible that no other guest at my accommodation (Baan B&B Sukhothai, if you're interested) had the same experience as me. You could just as easily stay in a slightly more upscale hotel (for example, Le Charme Sukhothai) and still have sleepless nights because some poor creature decides to stay up all night.

What makes Sukhothai special is – and I want to be honest – its rustic charm, in the best possible way. Its relative isolation and the comparatively small number of foreigners who even know the place have meant that tourism here has barely developed. If you're looking for luxury, this isn't the place for you; but if you want an unforgettable adventure, this is exactly where you're headed.

The best things to do in Sukhothai

Visit the ruins first thing in the morning.

One of the things I learned on my trip to Sukhothai? Lotus flowers only bloom in the early morning. Of course, that's not the only reason to visit Sukhothai's historical park first thing in the morning. Temples like the central Wat Matahat face east, which means the light is most beautiful in the morning.

Eat Sukhothai noodles

Another reason to start sightseeing early? It's scorching hot in Sukhothai. That's why I also recommend eating the Sukhothai noodles (which are literally served steaming hot) as early as possible in your Sukhothai trip, ideally before lunch or even for breakfast.

Observe everyday city life

Aside from the temples themselves, Sukhothai doesn't have much to offer. But even if you can only experience "urban" life (if you can even call Sukhothai a city) within its walls, I consider observing the locals (even if they are monks) in their daily lives a valuable part of a visit.

(And everyday rural life)

In fact, apart from the main street lined with hotels and restaurants, which you'll find in every Sukhothai guidebook, the area that was once Thailand's first capital is now largely rural. Parts of it are even quite lushly vegetated, something you'd probably notice more if you weren't practically melting in the sweltering heat.

Watch as everything lights up.

I was unlucky: Neither of the two sunsets I saw in Sukhothai was particularly impressive. The good news, however, is that even if you, like me, get a grey sky, the temples of Sukhothai are illuminated every night – and then they look beautiful, especially if you can photograph them with a tripod or other stabilizing device.

How many days does one need in Sukhothai?

Although Sukhothai isn't very large, it still offers many ruins to explore. For casual visitors, these become indistinguishable after a day or two, but true connoisseurs will appreciate the subtle details. Furthermore, Sukhothai is extremely hot and humid almost year-round (even compared to the rest of Thailand), which naturally limits the length of stay for most travelers.

In most cases, two nights are sufficient for a trip. I would even recommend one night if getting to Sukhothai weren't so expensive (with a direct flight on Bangkok Airways) or complicated (with a flight to Phitsanulok followed by a bus ride). You can see "everything" in 24 hours or less. No matter how many days you ultimately spend in Sukhothai, I'm sure you won't soon forget your time here.

More frequently asked questions about visiting Sukhothai

Is Sukhothai worth a visit?

Sukhothai is absolutely worth a visit. As sprawling as Angkor Wat in Cambodia, but without the crowds, it's perhaps my favorite "lost city" in Asia, with the exception of Bagan in neighboring Myanmar. Be sure to plan a few nights in the city to make up for the somewhat complicated journey there!

Which is better: Sukhothai or Ayutthaya?

Personally, I find Sukhothai much more appealing than Ayutthaya. Firstly, it's older and better preserved, as it was never severely affected by the 2011 floods, unlike Ayutthaya. Secondly, compared to Ayutthaya, which resembles a kind of historical Disneyland, it's practically free of tourists.

How far is Sukhothai from Bangkok?

The road distance from Bangkok to Sukhothai is approximately 425 km or 250 miles. In reality, however, most travelers fly (either directly to Sukhothai with Bangkok Airways or to Phitsanulok and from there by bus), which takes about two hours door-to-door.

Conclusion

First and foremost, I hope my list of things to do in Sukhothai has inspired you to visit Thailand's first capital city. Far too few foreigners venture here – and it really is a long journey. I also hope I've made your travel planning a little easier, as there's comparatively little English-language information available about Sukhothai compared to Ayutthaya. Unless you have the same bad luck I did, I'm convinced your stay in Thailand's first capital will be a revelation. If it's not already one of Thailand's top destinations, it certainly ranks among the best. Make your trip an unforgettable experience and let me help you plan it.