Koh Samui occupies a curious place in my memories of my Thailand trip. Let me start with the obvious: it was never my favorite island in Thailand – and I've never made a secret of that.

The more popular Samui has become (as I revise this guidebook, the island is still benefiting from the so-called "white lotus effect"), the more I've wondered what exactly makes the island so appealing. Is it the expensive flights? The overcrowded and overdeveloped beaches? The often rather disappointing accommodations?

At the same time, I've tried to document this Koh Samui itinerary less from my personal impressions of the island and more from my extensive travel experience. I hope it will still be helpful to you on your trip!

Accommodation in Koh Samui

As I mentioned in the introduction, many hotels on Koh Samui leave much to be desired. Not all, mind you – those who can afford a stay at the Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui, where the series "White Lotus" was filmed, will feel like they're in a movie. However, most accommodations on the island are neither as luxurious as this hotel nor as secluded from the hustle and bustle of the popular beaches of Chaweng and Lamai (more on that later).

Aside from a five-star hotel, there are essentially two options. You can stay in one of Koh Samui's livelier areas but choose accommodation with private (and ideally beachfront) villas. Kala, between Chaweng and Lamai, is a good example of this. Alternatively, if you have your own vehicle or don't mind having a driver, a more secluded option like the picturesque Anzhu Seamate Villa might be the best choice.

Things to do in Koh Samui

Visit the beaches of Chaweng and Lamai

Samui's east coast is diverse, but undoubtedly also boasts some of its most beautiful beaches. Whether Chaweng and Lamai (the two most popular) are among them is, of course, a matter of personal taste. I personally love Chaweng Noi Beach for swimming, although the view of Lamai from the observation platform near the bizarre rock formations "Grandmother" and "Grandfather" (where you can get fresh coconut ice cream or homemade caramel candies) offers the best photo opportunities.

Spend a morning at the Great Buddha

Another highlight of your Koh Samui trip? Wat Phra Yai, also known as the Big Buddha, and perhaps the multi-armed Wat Plai Laem, which is located not far from it. If you have time, you can have lunch in the fishing village of Bo Phut or go for a swim at the neighboring Mae Nam Beach. However, these activities are optional if you are short on time.

Explore the West off the beaten track in Nathon

Nathon, on Koh Samui's often overlooked west coast, is one of my favorite spots on the island. Whether I'm enjoying the sunset from the Khao Naw viewpoint, visiting one of the many coconut plantations, or stopping on the way to Na Muang Waterfall, Nathon is always a delight. Driving can be a bit stressful due to the traffic, but it's a beautiful place to spend a morning or afternoon. The visitors are mostly locals, with fewer tourists.

Don't neglect the underrated south coast.

To be honest, the south coast wasn't exactly at the top of my list when I first visited Koh Samui. I ended up there one afternoon almost by chance (more precisely, at Wat Phra Chedi Laem Sor) and have since made it a habit to drive along this coast on my subsequent visits when traveling between the east and west coasts. One of my favorite spots that not many people know about? Thong Krut Pier. It's not only a picturesque marina, but also boasts a wide selection of excellent local seafood restaurants.

Take a day trip to Ang Thong National Marine Park

Oddly enough, despite its proximity to many other destinations that warrant at least a day or two (more on that later), Koh Samui isn't an ideal base for day trips. The main exception is Ang Thong National Marine Park, an island group just off the coast. From Mae Nam Pier, you can easily take a boat trip to these islands, for which you should allow a full day.

How many days do you need on Koh Samui?

Leaving aside the various criticisms I've raised about Koh Samui, it's a large island with many possibilities. Realistically, you need at least two days to see everything – assuming you have your own car or can rent one and drive from your hotel. If you're relying on songthaews and Grab vehicles, you'll probably need more time, at least if you want to do a comprehensive tour.

The question of how many days to spend on Koh Samui naturally refers not only to the island itself, but also to the nearby islands of Koh Pha Ngan and Koh Tao. Even if you only spend one or two nights on Samui, you'll likely visit one or both of these other islands, resulting in a total of 3 to 7 days in the Chumphon Archipelago. It's much larger than it appears on a map!

More frequently asked questions about visiting Koh Samui

Is Koh Samui overrated?

In my opinion, Koh Samui is overrated, and not just because of the "White Lotus Effect" (although that certainly didn't help). Neither the quality of the beaches nor the chaotic lifeguard service justifies the high travel costs, which are mainly due to overpriced hotels and the monopoly of a single airline on the island. Samui isn't bad, but it's far from Thailand's best island.

Do I need to rent a motorbike in Koh Samui?

In Koh Samui, you absolutely need a vehicle, whether a car for self-driving or with a driver. However, I strongly advise against renting a motorbike unless you are very experienced. Motorbike accidents are extremely common in Thailand, especially among foreigners. Every year, hundreds of foreigners are seriously injured or even killed on Thailand's roads!

How long should I spend on Koh Samui?

To see everything Koh Samui has to offer, you should spend at least two to three nights on the island. However, if you also consider the nearby islands of Koh Tao and Koh Pha Ngan, a stay of three to seven nights in the Chumphon Archipelago is recommended, regardless of how many days you ultimately spend on Koh Samui.

Conclusion

I've spent nearly a decade perfecting my Koh Samui itinerary. And while I won't hide my feelings about the island—I'm not exactly raving about it—I've made the effort to get to know it. I might not be in a hurry to return myself, but I can certainly offer some tips for your trip. That is, of course, assuming you don't immediately hop on a boat to Koh Tao or Koh Pha Ngan and skip Samui altogether. Or that you don't hire me to plan your Thailand trip. With personalized recommendations for accommodation, meals, and activities, plus detailed transportation tips, this is the surest way to ensure your trip turns out exactly as you've envisioned.