Northern Thailand varies in its level of obscurity. Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai are, of course, quite well-known – which isn't necessarily a bad thing.

That's where the middle ground lies. I would place Mae Hong Son in that category, if only because hippies have been coming there for decades. Lampang too; it has become significantly more popular in recent years, not least thanks to my own reporting.

Nan or Phayao? Well, these are definitely the most "alternative" provinces in Northern Thailand, and also two of my favorites. If you can't decide, I'll do my best to help you choose in the following sections.

Phayao first caught my attention.

I don't want to reveal my decision between Nan and Phayao beforehand. Nevertheless, my final conclusion doesn't necessarily align with my initial impressions or assumptions – before arriving in the respective provinces, I felt significantly more drawn to Phayao. Ironically, this was largely due to the prospect of visiting the Phu Langka viewpoint, which I ultimately didn't.

After finalizing my travel plans and speaking with some Thai friends, I also became fascinated by the lake in Phayao; lakes are not particularly common in this part of Thailand. Nan, on the other hand, had long been on my list of travel destinations in Thailand (I first saw it mentioned as a "trendy destination," at least among Thai travelers, back in 2014), but I didn't have many concrete reasons to spend time there.

Ways to compare Nan with Phayao

Arrival

Both Nan and Phayao are quite remote and can only be reached from Chiang Mai – and even from Lampang, if you venture off the beaten tourist track – after several hours of driving. Nan is somewhat easier to reach overall, however, as it has an airport (Nan Airport, code NNT) with several daily direct flights from Bangkok (DMK). The nearest airport to Phayao, on the other hand, is Chiang Rai (CEI), which is almost a two-hour drive away.

locomotion

In both Nan and Phayao, having your own vehicle makes getting around much easier. In my opinion, a rental car is the best option. I strongly advise against a motorbike unless you are a very experienced motorcyclist, especially with extensive experience in Southeast Asia. While the city centers of both cities are easily explored on foot, a vehicle (whether rental or with a driver) is essential for day trips and excursions.

Activities

The main attraction in Phayao is Phayao Lake, and many other sights are located on or near the lake, such as Wat Tilok Aram, an "island temple." In Nan, on the other hand, you'll find several attractions right in the city, including Wat Phumin Temple and the Nan National Museum. My personal favorite in Nan, however, is Wat Phra That Khao Noi, a standing Buddha located about a 15-minute drive away.

Hotels

Of course, I'm somewhat biased in this comparison between Phayao and Nan. While the Baan Ma Grood guesthouse in Phayao wasn't exactly luxurious (though the service was excellent), it was at least clean. My stay at Nan's finest hotel (which I won't name out of respect) was a completely different story: I was literally rained down with maggots.

Natural landscapes

The aforementioned Phayao Lake clearly shapes the natural landscape of Phayao at least as much as the fertile rice paddies and lush mountains of the surrounding area – probably even more so than the "magic mountain" Phu Langkha, which I unfortunately haven't yet visited. In Nan, on the other hand, the surrounding landscape is more natural, but also less striking; the only real distinguishing feature is the aptly named Route 3.

Why you should visit both provinces

When I left Nan after a few days spent between there and Phayao (and Lampang, if we include all the places), I didn't think about which of these places was "better," but rather about the gratitude I felt for finally having explored both. It's honestly a privilege to still be able to experience so much that is new and authentic almost two decades after my first trip to Thailand, regardless of how developed the country has become for tourism.

I understand your time in Thailand is limited – you may have to choose between Phayao and Nan (or neither) and wait to visit the other province. But I urge you: if you're planning a longer trip to Thailand, please try to visit these two underrated provinces at some point, ideally as soon as possible. They are absolutely worth it.

Other frequently asked questions about Phayao and Nan

Which is better, naan or phayao?

Both Nan and Phayao are prime examples of Thailand's off-the-beaten-path destinations and are worth visiting for very different reasons. Nan is probably better suited to travelers who value a longer and more structured list of attractions, while Phayao is ideal for those seeking authenticity and seclusion.

How do I get from Nan to Phayao?

With your own car or a driver, you can reach Nan and Phayao in less than three hours (one way). By bus, however, you have to change vehicles and expect a journey time of up to ten hours. In short: Treat yourself to a private vehicle unless time is not a factor.

How many days do I need in Nan and Phayao?

Assuming you are traveling between the two provinces in your own vehicle, I recommend at least 3–5 days, split between Nan and Phayao. If you are traveling by bus from Nan to Phayao (and/or vice versa) and plan your travel within the two provinces more gradually, you will likely need closer to a week to explore them fully.

Conclusion

The question of Nan vs. Phayao isn't easily answered. There's no clear "loser"—both of these remote corners of Northern Thailand offer adventurous travelers countless experiences. Whether it's the rural atmosphere of Phayao, even in the town center, or the resilience of the locals in Nan, despite their town's growing popularity as a tourist destination, ultimately, you'll have to visit both places to form your own opinion. Don't have the time or inclination right now? Then let me create a personalized Thailand itinerary for you. I'll use my expertise and experience to plan a tailor-made tour of the Kingdom.