Thailand's second-largest island, Koh Chang, reveals a side of the kingdom that remains hidden to many travelers. Travel journalist Roderick Eime reports on his experiences at The Retreat on Koh Chang.

When people think of a Thai island, most immediately picture beaches. Koh Chang undoubtedly has them, but after a few days it becomes clear that the coastline is only one part of the whole picture.

Behind the beaches rises one of Thailand's most remarkable natural landscapes. Dense rainforest covers steep mountains, waterfalls cascade through jungle valleys, and winding mangrove channels lead into a world that feels far removed from the country's busier tourist centers.

This quieter side of Koh Chang makes a stay at The Retreat Koh Chang so worthwhile.

This family-run boutique resort is located on the island's west coast, facing the sea, and blends harmoniously into its surroundings. Tropical gardens, reclaimed wood, and open spaces create a seamless transition between the accommodation and the landscape, inviting guests to unwind and enjoy the relaxed island rhythm.

Siblings Mook and Mate Teeraniti, both under 40 and owners of the restaurant, represent a new generation of leaders in the Thai hospitality industry, taking a fresh, forward-thinking approach based on authenticity and sustainability.

“Our vision for The Retreat was to create a place where guests can truly unwind and reconnect with nature, with themselves, and with the essence of Thai hospitality,” says Mate Teeraniti. “We don’t want to offer the biggest, but the most meaningful experience on the island.”

Every morning you will be awakened by the singing of birds in the surrounding greenery and the view across the tranquil waters of the Gulf. But it is what lies beyond the resort that makes Koh Chang so unique, and how the Teeraniti family has made the most of its location.

One of the most unforgettable experiences is exploring the island's significant mangrove forests by traditional boat. Led by a local guide, you glide silently through the shaded waterways, past traditional fishing huts and tangled roots – in the heart of an ecosystem that has sustained local communities for generations. The silence is only occasionally broken by the splash of fish or the call of a kingfisher.

The story continues inland in Mu Ko Chang National Park, where Koh Chang's relatively untouched rainforest tells its own tale. Large parts of the island are still covered in protected, dense tropical vegetation, with hiking trails leading to hidden waterfalls and scenic viewpoints. Nature lovers can discover an astonishing variety of plants, birds, and wildlife here.

The island has fascinated botanists for decades. More than a thousand unique plant species have been recorded here, many of them described in detailed scientific papers by renowned botanists. This makes Koh Chang one of the most biodiverse natural areas in Thailand. This extraordinary biodiversity is increasingly attracting travelers interested in ecotourism and sustainable travel experiences.

Back at The Retreat, the connection to local culture continues through a cuisine inspired by the region's fishing traditions. Fresh seafood, tropical fruits, and locally sourced ingredients showcase the flavors of Eastern Thailand, best enjoyed at sunset over the Gulf.

Besides the lush vegetation, there are numerous opportunities for adventure, from kayaking and stand-up paddling to island-hopping trips that reveal secluded beaches and quiet bays inaccessible by land.

But Koh Chang's greatest appeal probably lies in its balance. The island offers the natural beauty that visitors expect from a Thai island, while simultaneously preserving an authenticity that has been lost in many more well-known Thai destinations.

Fortunately, Koh Chang isn't the easiest place to reach. The quickest way is by flying from Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK) in Bangkok to Trat Airport (TDX). The flight with Bangkok Airways takes exactly one hour. The airline offers daily direct flights. From there, a shuttle bus will take you directly to The Retreat Hotel.

Traveling by car, whether you choose a private transfer, a rental car, or a coach, takes approximately 5-6 hours. The island is also accessible by public ferry from Ao Thammachat Pier (also known as the Koh Chang ferry).

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The author stayed as a guest at The Retreat Koh Chang.