Why should you go there and how do you do it right?

Arrive around 7 pm. That's my tip. Chiang Mai's Night Bazaar isn't a single market, but rather a nearly kilometer-long stretch of stalls along Chang Khlan Road between Tha Phae Road and Sri Donchai Road, east of the old city towards the Ping River. Covered plazas line both sides. It's been running every evening since the late 1970s and still does. Stalls start setting up at 5 pm, most open around 6 pm, it's busiest between 7:30 and 9:30 pm, and the street stalls begin to wind down around 10:30 pm. An hour before the biggest rush gives you plenty of time to explore the entire stretch and decide what catches your eye.

And you should explore the street on foot first. Dozens of vendors offer the same elephant pants, T-shirts, carvings, and silk scarves at widely varying prices, so the first stall you come across is rarely the right one. According to a recent guidebook, elephant pants and T-shirts cost between 99 and 199 baht after some friendly haggling at the street stalls. The permanent shops and food stalls usually have fixed prices. Keep cash handy for small purchases.

The squares make up the other half. The Kalare Night Bazaar, with its food court and stage on the east side of the street, is open from approximately 4:00 PM to 11:30 PM. A prepaid voucher card is available for the food stalls and the traditional dance performances in the evening. Boxing matches take place most evenings starting at 9:00 PM in the Kalare Boxing Stadium behind the square. The Anusarn Market at the southern end of the district is quieter, partially covered, and offers its own food court as well as an evening cabaret. It's worth visiting on the same evening. The Kalare area is currently being redeveloped into Lannatique, so expect construction fences and a layout that may no longer match older guidebooks.

I would dedicate most of my time to the food, and it's unusually good for vegetarians. Besides Thai street food, there's fried tofu and mushrooms, samosas, and corn with cheese. Most dishes cost between 30 and 80 baht. Different stalls are located in different areas, so just try what you're eating instead of committing to the first plate you order.

From Tha Phae Gate, it's about 1 km east along Tha Phae Street, a 12-15 minute walk. A ride in a red songthaew within the city costs 30 baht per person, while a Grab ride from another location in the center costs approximately 80-180 baht. The market has neither a website nor a phone number, so just show up.