Perhaps it is the sound that has stayed with me most: the dull thud, reminiscent of an anvil or an elephant breaking through the night. Or perhaps the sensation of creeping, even though the culprits had no limbs; their movement was better described as scurrying or scraping.

Regardless of how much I love Nan, the first and last thing I'll ever think of when I think of her is maggots—yes, you read that right. Despite staying at the best hotel in town, I spent the entire night sleepless; dozens of maggots fell from the ceiling as I lay there (and later sat upright), waiting for sunrise like vampire prey.

Fortunately, you most likely won't have to experience this slow-motion nightmare on your own trip to the city. Thank goodness: if it hadn't been for my disastrous overnight stay, I would have long since started extolling the virtues of Nan.

Why it took me so long to visit Nan

Nan first appeared on my Thailand travel list over ten years ago (albeit in a very vague form) when a Thai friend told me that the city was being discovered by Thais. The problem? My search for an English-language guidebook to Nan proved fruitless, and I realized that a trip there would take more time than I had at the time. So I postponed the idea of ​​visiting Nan indefinitely.

In fact, between 2017 and 2019, when I was living in Bangkok and it would theoretically have been easier, I never even made it to Nan. I literally had to explore the entire rest of northern Thailand to open myself up to the idea again. Luckily, the resources available in my native language were much more helpful to me by then than they had been. Nan was definitely worth the wait.

Things to do in Nan

Spend some time in the charming center of Nan.

Nan's city center is an absolute delight, even if its most famous landmark (Wat Phumin) seems somewhat unassuming compared to other Thai temples – I prefer the "golden" temple, Wat Sri Phan Don, a little further down the road. But what I love most about Nan, more than any tourist attraction, is its unpretentiousness, whether I'm sipping locally grown coffee from a simple cart or browsing in a shop selling authentic traditional clothing.

(And don't miss the Nan National Museum)

The next stop on your Nan itinerary? The Nan National Museum, which stands out for two reasons. First, the museum building itself is absolutely magnificent; it was originally built as a royal residence around the turn of the 20th century. Furthermore, the exhibits are fascinating and illuminate, among other things, the local textile and pottery traditions. Another great place to learn about Nan's history? The Nan Noble House, a prime example of local teakwood architecture.

Visit Wat Phra That Khao Noi at least once

If there's one image that drew me to Nan, it's the standing golden Buddha at Wat Phra That Khao Noi, not to mention the breathtaking panoramic view of the city from up there. The temple is located a bit outside the city – if you don't have your own vehicle, you should arrange a ride well in advance. Therefore, I recommend visiting the temple several times if possible – once during the day and again at sunrise or sunset.

Let yourself be pampered by the cuisine of northern England.

Another of my favorite things to do in Nan is, unsurprisingly, eating. The good news is that you can enjoy all its northern Thai (and even some Isaan) specialties, from Khao Soi (curry noodle soup) and Sai Krok (sausages) to Nam Prik Ong (curry dip). What else you might want to try depends on your sense of adventure: for me, sampling the different varieties of locally grown oranges was enough. However, if you don't mind blood in your soup, Nam Ngiao might be more appealing than it was to me.

Explore the countryside north of the city.

To be honest, I wasn't in Nan at the right time of year to experience the lush vegetation of the rural areas north of the city. Nevertheless, I really enjoyed the drive on Loy Fa Road, also known as "Curve No. 3"—it really does look like a three. On future trips, I'd like to explore more and take the "back road" into Phayao Province to enjoy the sunset from Phu Langkha.

Should you stay overnight in Nan?

Originally, I had planned to visit Nan as a day trip from Lampang, as crazy as that may sound. With my rental car, that would have been doable, of course. However, I would have missed the sunset and the city lights. (On the other hand, it would have spared me the literal nightmare of being attacked by dozens of maggots while I slept. So maybe the plan wasn't so far-fetched after all?)

Of course, when choosing a hotel in Nan, you should avoid the PX122 Dbest Hotel – it's a real "maggot hotel." Instead, opt for a tried and tested, reliable place like the Nan Rim Nam Resort on the riverbank or the Baan Mai Muang Nan closer to the city center. No matter where you stay, be sure to check your room for unwanted guests before you unpack. I wish I could turn back time and do that beforehand!

Other frequently asked questions about visiting Nan

Is a visit to Nan's worthwhile?

Nan is absolutely worth a visit! From "attractions" like Wat Phumin and the standing Buddha Wat Phra That Khao Noi to the generally relaxed and authentic atmosphere of the city, it offers everything travelers love about Northern Thailand and practically nothing they don't like about it.

How do I get from Bangkok to Nan?

The easiest and fastest way to get from Bangkok to Nan is by taking a direct flight from Don Mueang Airport (DMK) to Nan Airport (NNT). There are several direct flights per day. Alternatively, you can take a bus or minibus from Mo Chit Bus Station. However, please note that the journey takes 9 to 12 hours and may involve an overnight trip.

How do I get from Chiang Mai to Nan?

The good news? There are relatively frequent direct buses between Chiang Mai and Nan. The bad news? The journey takes at least six hours. I recommend making stopovers, especially in Lampang. If you decide against it, however, you should spend at least one or two nights in Nan to make the trip worthwhile.

Conclusion

Of all the fantastic things to experience in Nan, I hope dodging falling maggots isn't on your list. Nan is, in many ways, the ultimate destination in Northern Thailand: it has the cultural significance of Chiang Mai, isn't as crowded as Lampang, and boasts the unspoiled beauty of Phayao. The only problem—and hopefully only in my case—was the uninvited guests in my hotel room. Do you need help planning your Thailand adventure, no matter how far off the beaten track it takes you, if you're even considering such a trip? Hire me to create a bespoke Thailand itinerary and leave the details to me.