Isaan is a part of Thailand that I only truly began to understand after many years. Almost ten years ago, I traveled there for the first time to visit the so-called Red Lotus Sea near Udon Thani. It was a great trip, but—to be honest—not one that inspired me to delve deeper into the subject.

No, that would take many more years (and many more trips). Although I've explored Isaan more extensively than most foreigners, it's still the part of Thailand that inspires the most respect in me.

That means if you ask a very basic question – namely, how many days you should spend in Isaan – the answer is: “As many as possible!”

Isaan is the epitome of "slow travel".

Be warned: My recommendations regarding the length of stay in Isaan might sound crazy to those unfamiliar with the area. Looking at a map, you might think you don't need much time. This is especially true if you only want to visit the well-known sights and aren't prepared to discover the region's true treasures off the beaten track. Isaan is many things, but the obvious sights aren't among them.

Furthermore, the roads in Isaan are among the worst in Thailand (many are unpaved), making travel times longer than expected. Similarly, while there are many local bus connections, long-distance buses are less frequent and run at longer intervals. Often, instead of traveling directly from city to city, you have to change buses at least once on the way to your final destination.

Where to travel in Isaan (no matter how long you stay)

Udon Thani

Udon Thani itself might not be a major highlight, although the night market near the train station is an ideal place to sample Isaan cuisine. However, it's an excellent base for exploring northern Isaan. The border town of Nong Khai is just a short drive or train ride north, and the aforementioned Red Lotus Sea and the impressive Kham Chanot Shrine make for great day trips. Is Udon Thani worth visiting? Yes, at least as much as the entire Isaan region.

Ubon Ratchathani

Not to be confused with Udon Thani: Ubon Ratchathani is another city you absolutely must visit, no matter how much time you have in Isaan. As in Udon, Ubon's city center is just the beginning. Just north of it is Wat Pra That Nong Bua, whose stupa is surpassed in splendor only by the statue of the Naga, a mythical serpent ubiquitous throughout Isaan. Take a trip to the surrounding area and visit Sam Phan Bok, Thailand's Grand Canyon.

King Et

Roi Et lies in the heart of the Isaan region and is surprisingly easy to miss if you're not specifically looking for it. I personally love the city center – and not just the view from the Roi Et Tower, although it is unique in this part of Thailand. When I'm not relaxing in well-maintained parks or listening to Thai country music on the street while having dinner, I enjoy taking trips to attractions like the imposing, towering Phra Maha Chedi Chai Mongkol temple.

Mukdahan

To be honest, whether you can come here depends on how many days you have in Isaan. However, if you're in Ubon and have some extra time, I recommend continuing your journey north along the Mekong. While Mukdahan isn't particularly impressive as a city, it still offers many sights (and great views of the river), most notably the Wat Roi Phra Phutthabat Phu Manorom Buddha temple.

Nakhon Phanom

Last but not least – and not quite yet; I'm summarizing this guide for the sake of clarity – I'd like to mention Nakhon Phanom. Its center is the small town of That Phanom (with its impressive stupa, Wat Phrathat Phanom). This place is strongly reminiscent of Laos, which lies directly opposite on the other side of the river. Come for the river views and stay for the local food markets, where you can sample the fragrant Isaan sausage, Sai Krok!

How to organize your Isaan travel itinerary

Talking about Isaan in general is one thing, planning a specific trip there is quite another. Here are a few quick tips to help you with your planning:

  • Rent a car in advance: Availability after your landing is not guaranteed.
  • Start in Udon and end in Ubon, or vice versa: there's no point in doing a loop if it's not necessary.
  • Follow the Mekong as long as you can: The river landscape is much more interesting than the interior of Isaan.

    • Specifically, you could start your journey in Udon Thani and travel north to Roi Et, then on to Nakhon Phanom, and then south along the Mekong River to Ubon Ratchathani. Alternatively, if you are planning a round trip, you could travel from Roi Et to Ubon and then back up the Mekong to Udon, either downstream via Nong Khai or inland via Sakhon Nakhon.

    Do you need individual support, whether for planning your stay in Isaan or with more complex matters? Then entrust me with planning your Thailand trip!

    Other frequently asked questions about your trip to Isaan

    Is Ubon Ratchathani worth a visit?

    Ubon Ratchathani is an underrated but interesting city, even if you miss the annual Candle Festival. How can you make your trip to Ubon even more worthwhile? Take a day trip from the city center to Sam Phan Bok, also known as the "Grand Canyon of Thailand."

    Is Udon Thani worth a visit?

    Like Ubon, Udon (which sounds similar but is not the same) is one of the most vibrant destinations in Isaan. After indulging in the street food specialties at the fantastic night market by the train station, you should get up early the next morning, whether to experience the sunrise at the Red Lotus Sea or to embark on the long journey to the shrine of Kham Chanot.

    Is Roi Et worth a visit?

    All in all, Roi Et is probably my favorite city in Isaan. This is partly due to the urban planning: the lush green spaces around the Roi Et Tower act like a green lung in the middle of the city, not to mention the fantastic panoramic view. Furthermore, the Chai Mongkol Chedi, one of the most fascinating temples I have ever visited in Thailand, is located in Roi Et province.

    Conclusion

    Still unsure how many days to spend in Isaan? Simply put: stay in Isaan as long as the rest of your Thailand trip allows. Traveling in the so-called "Texas of Thailand" is leisurely, but the number of destinations (and the distances between them) is vast. If you want to explore more than just a few cities in Isaan, I recommend planning at least a week. Need help planning your Isaan trip? Book me as your travel coach – and let me create a personalized Thailand itinerary for you today!