Mae Hong Son is no hidden gem in Thailand. Well, not quite – and certainly not entirely. In fact, one could argue that a certain destination (the "hippie" town of Pai) has been practically mainstream for a long time.

All of this means that there's no good reason why it took me so long to visit Mae Hong Son. I simply didn't feel like going until recently.

Whether you're taking a tour along the Mae Hong Son circuit from Chiang Mai or doing an independent trekking tour, this Mae Hong Son guidebook leaves no stone unturned.

Where to settle in Mae Hong Son

If you've never been to this part of Thailand, you might just be looking for hotels in Mae Hong Son and calling it a day. And that's perfectly understandable. Although Mae Hong Son is a few hours away from other attractions in the province, it's still my favorite place there. The Fern Resort is one of my all-time favorite hotels, and not just because Brangelina stayed there 20 years ago.

However, if you don't just want to fly to Mae Hong Son and explore the surrounding area, I would recommend looking for hotels in other regions. These include the alternative town of Pai (which, as I will explain later, is now mainly visited by wealthy backpackers) and Mae Sariang, a sleepy riverside town that I was initially skeptical of but ended up coming to appreciate very much.

Things to do along the Mae Hong Son loop

Relax in Pai

Or rather, don't bother. Although I thoroughly enjoyed my organic "Buddha Bowl" (which was apparently vegan) at the Earth Tone restaurant at the foot of the Great Buddha in Pai, the place as a whole left me rather cold. I suspect this was because Pai seems to be anything but a hippie commune, and more like a place where wealthy men and women dress up as hippies.

Ban Rak Thai should be enjoyed with caution… uh, rice.

To be honest, my first few days on the Mae Hong Son tour were disappointing. Pai, as mentioned before, left much to be desired. And then, on the way to Mae Hong Son, my absolute top destination (the village of Ban Rak Thai) was… completely different than expected. Far from being the “most beautiful city in Thailand” (as it was supposedly once voted), it's basically a shopping mall with a resort feel, which—despite being almost in Myanmar—is meant to have a vaguely Chinese feel.

TIP: The Mae Hong Son tour is about the journey, not the destination. Therefore, the entire trip is worthwhile for the Pha Suea Waterfall alone, which is located directly on the way to the city.

Savor Mae Hong Son

For me, the Mae Hong Son tour begins in… well, Mae Hong Son itself. There isn't much to see in the town, although the Burmese-style Wat Chong Kham adds a certain charm to the pedestrian zone. Rather, it's the atmosphere, both here and in the surrounding area (including the aforementioned Fern Resort), that gives me my first real sense of arrival on the tour.

See the “sunflowers”.

If you, like me, take the Mae Hong Son tour in November or December, you'll see many advertisements for a "sunflower field" officially called Thung Bua Thong. I put "sunflower" in quotes because the flowers in these fields (which are admittedly impressive) are more like coneflowers. Nevertheless, it's a very worthwhile stop on your journey if you have the time.

Think about it in Mae Sariang.

To be honest, I arrived in Mae Sariang with mixed feelings. On the one hand, the place was visually exactly what I had hoped for: a sleepy street along a quiet, murky river and hardly any foreigners. On the other hand, the locals didn't seem particularly friendly or welcoming. Ultimately, I came to the conclusion that this was a good thing; it prevents anyone from "discovering" the place.

Should one drive the Mae Hong Son loop?

One reason why it took me so long to visit Mae Hong Son? I didn't want to visit just one place. While you can take a bus from Chiang Mai to Pai or fly to Mae Hong Son, the reality is that public transport simply isn't sufficient to manage the journey – at least not if you don't have an enormous amount of time (and patience – I have neither). It was only recently that driving in Thailand stopped intimidating me.

I put together this Mae Hong Son itinerary primarily under the assumption that you'll follow in my footsteps (or rather, tire tracks) and do the tour yourself. Or at least with a driver. Of course, you can visit these places individually, but for me, they're much more impressive together (and, moreover, they seem more essential).

Other frequently asked questions about visiting Mae Hong Son

How long does the Mae Hong Son round last?

The Mae Hong Son tour can be completed in just three nights. This includes one night each in Pai, Mae Hong Son, and Mae Sariang (in reverse order), as well as the journeys between these locations (and from Chiang Mai to Pai and from Pai to Mae Hong Son), which take between 3 and 6 hours depending on the number of stops for sightseeing and photos.

What is the famous Mae Hong Son bow?

The famous Mae Hong Son circuit is a collection of cities in Mae Hong Son province north of Chiang Mai, linked by a “circular route” (mainly the 1095 and 108 highways) that makes it possible to visit all the destinations on a continuous tour by car or motorbike.

Which direction do you drive the Mae Hong Son loop in?

Most travelers begin the Mae Hong Son loop with the "Road to Pai"—starting in Pai, which is the counter-clockwise route from Chiang Mai. However, you can also go to Mae Sariang first, then to Mae Hong Son, and finally to Pai before returning to Chiang Mai.

Conclusion

I hope my Mae Hong Son travel guide has been helpful, whatever your reason for choosing to travel to northern Thailand. Some travelers start in Chiang Mai, where they rent a motorbike (or a car, like me) and cycle the Mae Hong Son loop, which includes Pai, Mae Sariang, and of course, Mae Hong Son town itself. Others fly directly to Mae Hong Son, where they can go hiking or simply relax in the jungle. In either case, you can use my guide to plan your trip. Or, if you'd prefer personalized advice, we'd be happy to create a tailor-made Thailand itinerary for you – we'll leave the planning to you.