Koh Chang is utter chaos.

On my last trip there, Koh Chang didn't stand a chance. I had chosen a circuitous route – from Koh Samui via Bangkok – and was completely exhausted when I got off the ferry at Ao Sapparot Pier.

Even if the car I had rented (I don't do business with motorcycles) hadn't smelled of cat urine and the weather hadn't been mostly cloudy in the middle of the supposed dry season, the basic features of the island never really appealed to me.

Nevertheless, I began my exploration in good faith and hoping to find some of what I had missed in the past. I wanted to answer the most fundamental question – is Koh Chang worth a visit? – as objectively as possible and with as many facts as possible.

I gave Koh Chang many chances.

When it comes to the question of whether a visit to Koh Chang is worthwhile, please believe me: I didn't form my opinion hastily. I've visited the island several times at different stages of my life and tried to experience it as open-mindedly as possible. On my last trip, for example, I arrived completely without expectations (and with a concrete plan), even though I had been there before. So I knew exactly what to expect!

What bothered me most was seeing how much everyone else seemed to enjoy the island, even aspects that disappointed or even annoyed me. During all my visits to Koh Chang, but especially this last one, I wondered what I was missing, or whether it was perhaps my own personality or my expectations as a traveler that prevented me from feeling love for an island that seemed so lovable.

Why Koh Chang keeps disappointing me

The beaches aren't great

I come from the Midwestern United States, a country that, despite having one of the longest coastlines in the world (with a few exceptions), is rather short on beaches. Admittedly, some stretches of Koh Chang's coast (especially Lonely Beach in the west) are quite nice, but none of them even come close to the most beautiful beaches in Thailand.

(Not even the streets)

I find it difficult to recommend Koh Chang because of the roads – or rather, the road – as there is a main road that circles the island (but doesn't completely). I insisted on renting a car (I didn't want to get killed in a motorbike accident), which may have influenced my opinion. But the roads are simply not good.

That's not really my audience.

Although I certainly appreciated the quirky charm here (I saw a girl dressed as Snow White sitting on a motorbike), I get the impression that Koh Chang attracts a rather shady crowd, ranging from the more budget-conscious, mostly European tourists to the many stoners who seem to be conducting their "business" here. I remember sitting down to order a pizza with typical Thai toppings, and the waiter making it perfectly clear that he was too high that day to prepare anything else.

(Or my pace)

If you only take one thing away from my Koh Chang travelogue, let it be this: Koh Chang is a totally laid-back island where ordinary people ride motorbikes between ordinary beaches to relax. I don't say this in a derogatory or critical way – after all, I'm not a luxury traveler! – but simply to show the reality.

Other places in Trat are better

Although I'm not a big fan of Koh Kood, the most famous island in Trat, I love the archipelago's two smaller islands, Koh Mak and Koh Wai. Both of these places (and even tiny Koh Kham and, perhaps surprisingly, the somewhat remote Trat Town on the mainland) are, in my opinion, much more worthwhile than Koh Chang.

Trat's other islands

The good news? Even if you end up feeling as ambivalent about Koh Chang as I did, that's not the only reason to visit Trat province. Here's an overview of the other reasons:

Even better? You can also visit Trat Town on the mainland, adding another facet and variety to your trip, no matter how many days you ultimately spend on Koh Chang.

More frequently asked questions about visiting Koh Chang

Which is better, Koh Samui or Koh Chang?

Neither Koh Samui nor Koh Chang are among my favorite islands in Thailand. If I had to choose, however, I would probably pick Samui, since you can fly there directly from Bangkok. Getting to Koh Chang is considerably more difficult, which makes the disappointment upon arrival all the greater.

Which is better, Phuket or Koh Chang?

Phuket offers me a more interesting travel experience than Koh Chang, even though Koh Chang might have a bit more to offer in terms of the island experience. For example, there's no place on Koh Chang comparable to Phuket Town; while you can travel to other islands from Koh Chang, day trips aren't as easy as from Phuket (for example, to Koh Racha, the Yao Islands, or even the Similan Islands).

What is there to do on Koh Chang?

Koh Chang is more conducive to relaxation than activity. That's not to say there aren't any activities – whether it's lounging on Lonely Beach, enjoying the sunset behind Bang Bao Pier, or unwinding in the fishing village of Salak Kok on the island's remote east coast. But in my experience, it's the people who love Koh Chang most who use it for relaxation.

Conclusion

Is Koh Chang worth a visit? Well, if you're already in Trat province, the answer could certainly be yes. The journey from Trat Airport to Koh Chang is significantly shorter than to the other islands. You could spend one or two nights on Koh Chang and then continue your journey from Bang Bao Pier in the south to your next destination (which is also a shorter trip). However, I don't quite see the value of Koh Chang as a destination in its own right, but rather as a stopover. Then again, perhaps I'm not the target audience. Need help choosing the perfect Thai island combination for your holiday? Create your personalized Thailand itinerary today!