Khao San Road is a place you either absolutely hate or can't get enough of. This 400-meter-long street in the heart of the old city divides opinions like no other: backpackers love it for its cheap hostels and vibrant nightlife, while discerning travelers nowadays find it kitschy and run-down. Nevertheless, we think it's worth a visit – albeit with some reservations.

Apparently, Khao San Road had an incredibly charming, alternative atmosphere in the 1990s when we were kids. You hear stories from back then about how people used to meet there, get to know other travelers, and plan their trips through Southeast Asia. However, with its increasing popularity, it lost some of its flair and transformed into a touristy promenade and a veritable party district.

After the pandemic, everything changed again. Numerous legal cannabis shops sprang up like mushrooms, and for some inexplicable reason, nightclubs upgraded their sound systems even further. For those who visited Khao San Road in the 90s, it's barely recognizable today. Nevertheless, it's one of those places you absolutely have to see at least once in your life. Here's the unvarnished truth about surviving on Khao San Road in Bangkok. But first, let us tell you about our experiences.

Mega-bars of Khao San Road

Kat with her friends on Khao San Road

What is Khao San Road like?

Cam first saw Khao San Road as a teenager on a family vacation. His parents had booked a hotel roughly halfway along the road, so he had to walk there (around midnight) with his backpack – quite an experience. It was a veritable sensory overload: scorpions, booze, and just an insane atmosphere right after landing. He turned to his parents and asked, "Where did you take us?" to which they simply shrugged.

Back then, Khao San Road had a really lively atmosphere. You could even buy funny ID cards as souvenirs, and Cam's brother thought it was a great idea to get one made with the name McLovin on it. Another fantastic experience was our New Year's Eve there in 2020. Cam had met Kat by then, so she came along with Cam's family. We all wore Hawaiian shirts, went to a bar with live music, and enjoyed the evening.

It was incredibly busy, with everything from Chang beer promotions to communal sing-alongs at the YMCA. The highlight was the countdown. We joined thousands of people in the street (a mix of tourists and Thais) and witnessed a fantastic light show. We celebrated together as the clock struck midnight. Since then, we only visit Khao San Road sporadically. We don't go there to party or to explore the seedy or quirky side of Thailand. We prefer the surrounding street food stalls and the more relaxed alleyways that run parallel to the road.

New Year's Eve celebration with Cam's family

Kat at Khao San Countdown 2020

10 Top Things to Do on Khao San Road

  • Shopping at the clothing stalls
  • Treat yourself to a foot massage by the roadside.
  • Order a famous cocktail bucket
  • Eat Thai donuts at Patonggo Cafe
  • Listen to live acoustic music at Thanon Ram Buttri
  • Enjoy Thai Hot Pot (Jim Jum) in the surrounding streets.
  • After midnight, we go to the club to go out.
  • Join a street singing concert in one of the bars with outdoor tables.
  • Take a tuk-tuk back through the historic old town to your hotel.

    • Kat with her friends down in Thanon Ram Buttri

    Live acoustic music in Thanon Ram Buttri

    Thai hot pot (Jim Jum) just outside Khao San Road

    10 scams and tourist traps you should avoid

  • Avoid the shady areas of Khao San Road.
  • Beware of inferior and overpriced suits.
  • Be careful when dealing with heavily intoxicated tourists.
  • Don't bring your family here late at night.
  • Don't get ripped off at the clothing stalls, haggle a little.
  • Beware of the scam "Grand Palace is closed today"!
  • Do not photograph food stalls without buying something.
  • Avoid fast-food chains and try street food instead.
  • Stay away from drugs, cannabis, and laughing balloons!
  • Do not get into a taxi outside of Khao San Street (unless the taxi meter is used).

    • Local noodle shop near Khao San Road

    Accommodation nearby

    We don't recommend staying directly on Khao San Road unless you're a young backpacker who doesn't mind the noise at night. For everyone else, the hotels around the street are ideal. Our favorite is Casa Vimaya: a comfortable, quiet 4-star hotel with a rooftop pool, just a 5-10 minute walk away. Another great option is the Gravitique Hotel, which is even closer (a 2-minute walk) and still offers much-needed soundproofing.

    Arrival

    Khao San Road is located in the old city (in the Phra Nakhon district), not far from cultural landmarks like Wat Pho and the Grand Palace. Its central location is the reason we like to stay in this area – it's one of the few places in Bangkok that you can actually explore on foot. The journey from Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK) takes about an hour by taxi, but it's best to book an airport transfer to avoid the (sometimes long) taxi queues.

    A cheaper alternative from Suvarnabhumi Airport is to take the Airport Rail Link to Phaya Thai station, from where you can take a taxi (approximately 20 minutes). If you are staying in the Sukhumvit district, the easiest option is to take the BTS Skytrain to Saphan Taksin station and then continue by taxi or riverboat. From other parts of Bangkok, the Sanam Chai MRT station is recommended. A new MRT station is planned for Khao San Road, but it is still under construction during my visit. It is scheduled to open in 2030.

    Frequently Asked Questions about Khao San Road

    How safe is this area of ​​Bangkok?

    In general, Khao San Road is very safe as long as you are vigilant and aware that the greatest danger comes from drunk tourists (not locals). We saw some disheveled foreigners there, which is a sad sight, but there are always a few police officers around who can intervene if necessary. Women traveling alone should be careful in the dark alleys at night, and families should avoid the main road after 9:00 pm.

    What are some tourist attractions nearby?

    Khao San Road is about a 20-minute walk from the Grand Palace, the Giant Swing, the Golden Mount (Wat Saket), and the Rajadamnern Stadium – the best place in Thailand to see Muay Thai. Wat Pho is also within a 30-minute walk. It's also worth exploring the neighborhoods surrounding Khao San Road – if only for their authentic atmosphere and hidden culinary gems.

    Is it worth visiting Khao San Road during the day?

    In our opinion, Khao San Road isn't worth visiting during the day. The street exudes a strange, post-apocalyptic atmosphere, still recovering from the previous night. Vendors slowly unpack their clothes and souvenirs, and tourists wander around hungover and exhausted in the midday sun. While some food stalls are still open, the street only really comes alive after dark, when it transforms into a vibrant party district with neon lights.

    What is the best alternative to Khao San Road?

    The best alternative to Khao San Road is undoubtedly Bangkok's Chinatown. The food is sensational, and there are some street bars and hidden rooftop terraces if you're looking for some nightlife. You can also spend a day getting lost in Song Wat Road and the Talat Noi district, known for its street art, café culture, and authentic restaurants.