Why should you go there and how do you do it right?

This restaurant's greatest strength lies in its diverse clientele. There's a menu for meat-eaters, another for vegetarians and vegans – and neither feels like an afterthought, added on just to cater to tourists. Anyone who's ever spent a week in Bangkok trying to explain "no fish sauce" across language barriers will find a visit to Soi Samsen 4 worthwhile.

The cuisine is down-to-earth and Thai, and it's known for taking spice levels and special dietary requirements seriously, rather than just throwing something together. The prices are reasonable, so it's not a restaurant for special occasions, but rather a place where you'd happily eat three nights in a row because it's uncomplicated and delicious. The ambiance matches this: relaxed, homey, nothing staged for photos. Ban Phan Thom is a tranquil oasis, which is a big part of its charm after a day in the bustling tourist areas.