Maya Bay is definitely still worth a visit, but you should temper your expectations somewhat, as the experience has changed in recent years. One can only imagine what it must have been like in the 90s when you could arrive in a private longtail boat, swim in the emerald-green water, and have one of Thailand's most spectacular beaches almost entirely to yourself.

It could have been reminiscent of the film "The Beach," in which Leonardo DiCaprio frolicd on the pristine beach before the rest of the world discovered it. Those days are long gone, but there are still plenty of reasons to visit Maya Bay. The scenery remains breathtaking—limestone cliffs surround the bay like an amphitheater—only now you have to share it with countless tourists.

That's exactly what we experienced when we took the early morning boat tour from Koh Phi Phi. The first ten minutes were calm and peaceful, then the throngs of tourists arrived and completely ruined the atmosphere. However, in our opinion, there are more beautiful places to discover on the Phi Phi Islands these days – bays and beaches that are just as beautiful as Maya Bay, but significantly less crowded (more on that below).

What are the rules in Maya Bay?

Did you know that Maya Bay was closed for three and a half years? From June 2018 to January 2022, the famous beach was shut down to allow the ecosystem to recover – especially the coral reefs, which had been severely damaged by mass tourism. At times, up to 5,000 visitors came daily (and stayed for hours), but this number has since been limited to around 4,000, and strict time restrictions are in place (a maximum of one hour).

After the closure of Maya Bay, marine biologists set to work re-establishing thousands of coral colonies, and eventually even blacktip reef sharks returned. Today, restrictions apply to visitors: swimming is prohibited (though dipping your feet in the water is still permitted), and access is via a new floating jetty and a short jungle path from the back of the island.

Unfortunately, it's no longer possible to drive through the gap in the limestone cliffs in front of the bay, as breathtaking as that would have been. When such a fragile natural paradise becomes so popular, rules and regulations are necessary to protect it for future generations. We fully accepted this fact and did our best to enjoy Maya Bay, even in its significantly restricted form.

Arrival at the new floating pier

We dip our feet into the water.

Getting to Maya Bay

From Phi Phi Don

Speedboat tours and private longtail boat trips are the two main ways to reach Maya Bay. The most convenient starting point is Phi Phi Don, which can be reached in about 20 minutes by speedboat. These tours can easily be arranged upon arrival in the village of Tonsai – a lively place with numerous small travel stalls. The meeting point is usually McDonald's. During peak season, roughly between Christmas and early February, it is advisable to book your Maya Bay tour online in advance.

Book the tour here: Phi Phi – Avoid the crowds

The McDonald's meeting point

Speedboat tour to Maya Bay

From Krabi

Another popular starting point is Krabi, usually from the beaches of Ao Nang or Railay. While the speedboat journey takes longer, it includes stops at other stunning islands like Ko Thap and Ko Poda. These excursions typically last a full day, unlike the half-day trips from Koh Phi Phi. It's best to check the details beforehand.

Book the tour here: From Krabi: Phi Phi Early Bird and 4 Island Tour

From Phuket

While you can depart from Phuket, the distance makes it difficult to arrive early enough to avoid the tourist crowds. Tours typically stop at other islands like Khai Nai and Bamboo Island, so there's a good chance you won't reach Maya Bay until mid-morning, along with dozens of other boats. Nevertheless, it can be a beautiful day with stunning scenery, hidden gems, and classic sights like Maya Bay.

Book the tour here: From Phuket: Phi Phi Sunrise Boat Tour

How to avoid the crowds at Maya Bay

The surest way to avoid the crowds at Maya Bay is to take a tour departing from Phi Phi Don around 7:00 AM. Our tour started a little later, at 8:30 AM, but we were still able to enjoy Maya Bay briefly and almost undisturbed. The only downside of the early morning tour is that the beach is still in shadow, as the sun isn't high enough yet. However, by 9:30 AM it's light and the sun is shining on the water.

Another disadvantage of speedboat tours is that you can't choose your own departure time. With a private longboat tour, however, you can freely select your departure time, from 6:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. The afternoon tours are just as appealing, by the way – Maya Bay closes at 6:00 p.m., and most day-trippers leave in the early afternoon. This way, you can avoid the biggest crowds and bypass the dawn.

Book the tour here: Private Longtail Tour on Phi Phi

Is a visit to Maya Bay still worthwhile?

The advantages of Maya Bay

In our experience, the beach was very clean, with soft, white sand and crystal-clear water. The authorities have obviously done an excellent job of managing visitor flow and minimizing litter problems. The view of the limestone cliffs, rising up to 100 meters all around, is incredibly impressive. Although we didn't see any marine life like blacktip reef sharks, we've heard they can swim close enough to shore to be observed.

The disadvantages of Maya Bay

We didn't mind not being able to swim, but the strict one-hour time limit was a bit of a drawback. It made the tour feel rushed, and you didn't really get your money's worth. However, most tours include stops at Pi Leh Lagoon and Monkey Beach, which extends the day somewhat. All in all, we think Maya Bay is still worth a visit – with the caveat that a private longtail boat tour is probably the best option.

Better alternatives to Maya Bay

Wang Long Bay

If you're staying in Phi Phi Don, we recommend a longtail boat trip to Wang Long Bay. This hidden lagoon isn't easy to reach and is considerably smaller than Maya Bay, but it boasts similarly impressive limestone cliffs. You'll navigate a narrow inlet into shallow, emerald-green water and a small beach with a swing. The bay is often deserted, especially in the early morning or late afternoon.

Longtail to Wang Long Bay

Nui Beach

Another hidden gem on Koh Phi Phi is Nui Beach, which can be reached by longtail boat from Loh Dalum Beach. This small bay is surrounded by rugged limestone cliffs and marine karst formations, and boasts white sand and emerald-green water. During the day, the beach is quite busy, but nothing compared to the constant tourist crowds in Maya Bay. And most importantly: there are no swimming bans or time restrictions at either Nui Beach or Wang Long Bay.

Read more: 20 top activities on Koh Phi Phi (Beyond Maya Bay)

Frequently asked questions about visiting Maya Bay

When does Maya Bay close each year?

Maya Bay is fully open again. The beach is only closed for two months, from August 1st to September 30th. Since this falls during the monsoon season, when the sea is often too rough anyway, it also gives the ecosystem time to recover without tourists. The reef sharks use the shallow waters as a nursery and need this time to breed.

Do you have to pay fees for national parks?

The Phi Phi Islands are located within the Hat Noppharat Thara-Mu Ko Phi Phi National Park. As with most national parks in Thailand, there is an entrance fee. For places like Maya Bay and Bamboo Island, you'll pay 400 THB or 200 THB for children – this fee is valid for one day. This fee is included in the price of most tours, but often not on private longtail boat trips. Therefore, be sure to bring cash to pay the park rangers upon arrival.

Are there toilets or food stalls?

There are no large restaurants or food stalls in Maya Bay – another measure to reduce the impact of tourism on the beach. However, you can find restrooms on the jungle trail behind the beach. Don't expect the cleanest restrooms in the world, though – especially if you arrive in the afternoon after hundreds of tourists have already been there.

Is it possible to stay overnight on Phi Phi Leh?

Overnight stays in Maya Bay and (in fact) nowhere else on Phi Phi Leh are permitted. However, there is a special option: overnight boat tours departing from Phi Phi Don. This allows you to visit the beach before sunset, spend the night on a boat in the protected bay, and return the following morning at sunrise.

Is it allowed to fly drones on this famous beach?

Drone flights are prohibited in Maya Bay, but regular cameras are permitted. A drone permit is only available with a special exemption, which is practically impossible to obtain. Don't take any chances: the fines can be substantial (up to 100,000 THB), and we've witnessed how strictly the authorities enforce the rules and how they can remove swimmers from the water. For more tips and information about Thai culture, see our article below.

Read more: Thailand travel tips: 50 things you should know before your trip