On our way back from Erawan Falls, we made a detour to Mallika City after spotting it advertised in our hotel's travel brochure. Before our trip to Kanchanaburi, we had no idea this vibrant heritage village existed, but we were captivated from the moment we stepped through the enormous red gates. It was an unusual experience, as we had the entire place to ourselves – we weren't sure if it was deserted, unpopular, or simply too far off the beaten track.
Be that as it may, we actually liked it better this way, especially since we had just encountered large crowds in Erawan National Park. For those who don't know it: Mallika City is a replica of a traditional Siamese village from 1905. It seems a bit staged and kitschy at first, but you quickly get used to it. What we enjoyed most was exchanging our Thai baht for these old coins called satang: copper coins with holes in them.
We were a bit overeager at first and exchanged 2,000 THB. As it turned out, you only need a maximum of 500 THB per person for lunch and shopping at the small markets. You can always exchange the coins back into baht when leaving the market. It was a sweltering day in February, so we decided against renting costumes and were happy just to see the staff in their traditional dress. If you're looking for something special to experience on your trip through Kanchanaburi, we highly recommend Mallika City.
How to get from Kanchanaburi to Mallika City
Mallika City is about a 30-minute drive or motorbike ride from Kanchanaburi. Since the city lies west of Kanchanaburi, we recommend visiting it after your morning excursion to Mueang Sing Historical Park or Erawan National Park. The return journey from Erawan takes you along beautiful back roads: we saw trucks loaded to the brim with maize, with a rugged mountain landscape in the background.
For travelers, renting a scooter or motorbike is obviously the most convenient option. We rented one for 400 THB per day. Alternatively, you can take the local bus to Sai Yok from Kanchanaburi bus station. A day trip from Bangkok isn't worthwhile: the journey takes 3-4 hours each way, and the village isn't worth the effort. It's best to combine the trip with other activities in Kanchanaburi.
Refueling in Kanchanaburi
Visitor information (Things to know before your trip)
10 Top Things to Do in Mallika City
1. Admire the white and red city wall
Upon our arrival, we were immediately greeted by the massive white city walls and the towering red castle gates. The guard at the gates saluted us as we drove up, and the rickshaw driver, dressed in red, also gave us a cheeky wave. It was a surprisingly cool moment. Before entering this "fortified world," we admired the architecture and took some photos with the staff. Then we went inside to find something to eat. It was now 2:00 PM, and we were absolutely starving.
2. Enjoy Pad Thai or noodle soup by the water.
We didn't need much persuading when, as we walked past a restaurant, the staff invited us to lunch. It was a dreamy sight: pretty little tables on a wooden terrace overlooking the water and the Saphan Han Bridge. Cam ordered Pad Thai and Kat noodle soup, and we sat back and enjoyed watching the chefs prepare the food in woks and pots over a wood fire. The food was incredible—with a delicious smoky aroma—perhaps a reminder of the excellent Thai cuisine during the time of King Rama V.
3. Stop for Som Tum at the floating house
Incredibly, but true: After lunch, we were still hungry and decided to eat a plate of Som Tum at a floating house (Reuan Pae). It was prepared a bit milder for tourists, lacking the strong flavor of the fermented fish and the spiciness, but the papaya was still fresh and crisp. These floating shops were common in early 20th-century Thailand; food and goods of all kinds were transported on the river back then.
4. Buy some dried fruit as a snack.
Throughout the village, you'll find vendors selling everything from jewelry and souvenirs to dried fruit and snacks. Cam, himself a Kiwi, was immediately taken with the dried kiwi on offer. He bought a small bag and happily nibbled on it while we strolled around. We had no idea how much they cost, but it was barely enough to cover our small change of Satang coins. Kat also bought pineapple versions of the same kiwi, which were just as delicious.
5. Explore the ancient market district
If you continue walking, you will inevitably come across the so-called Old Market Zone. This is a replica of several famous Thai market districts from 1905, including Yaowarat Road (Chinatown) with its distinctive Chinese atmosphere. You will discover red lanterns, colorful murals, and numerous dishes from that era. However, when we arrived, we were already stuffed and therefore focused solely on taking photographs.
6. Climb the watchtower.
Not far from the old market district stands the city tower, or watchtower. Its design is inspired by a typical prison tower, from which guards could keep an eye on the prisoners and prevent escapes. Visitors are welcome to climb the tower and enjoy the view over Mallika City to the rugged green mountains beyond. We ourselves didn't make the climb due to the heat.
7. Take photos of the houses and gardens
Mallika City is worth a visit for the sheer number of photo opportunities alone – we understand why the locals like to dress up so much. A new photogenic scene awaits around every corner, be it the townhouse (Reuan Dieow) or the family estate (Reuan Khaha Bodi). We were particularly impressed by the gardens – they are impeccably maintained. One is even called the Jasmine Garden, which fits perfectly with the name "Mallika," meaning jasmine.
Family Villa (Reuan Khaha Bodi)
8. Take a rickshaw ride in Mallika City
In Mallika City, numerous rickshaws are readily available, their drivers waiting for passengers as soon as you enter the town. A short ride costs no more than 50 THB and is an enjoyable way to explore the village. During the reign of King Rama V, rickshaws were primarily operated by Chinese immigrants living under royal protection. We briefly considered hiring one, mainly to escape the sun, but ultimately found walking more relaxing.
9. Say a few words in the old-fashioned dialect.
One of the best things about Mallika City was listening to the employees speak their old-fashioned dialect. Kat, for example, was absolutely thrilled. She knew the dialect from movies, but hearing it live in a near-real setting was fascinating. She ended her sentences with "Chao Kha" instead of the modern "Kha" and had a lot of fun playing around with the words. It's a good idea to practice a few phrases before you go: it will help ease the atmosphere with the employees and show that you're making an effort.
10. Take some Satang coins home with you.
We exchanged half of our Satang coins back into Thai Baht at the ticket counter and kept a few as souvenirs. You can easily do the same and even make a necklace from the hole in the copper coins. Note that only Satang coins are accepted as currency in Mallika City – Baht are not accepted there. Budget around 300–500 THB or more, depending on how much food and souvenirs you plan to buy.
Conclusion: Is Mallika City worth a visit?
Mallika City is clearly geared towards tourism – there's no getting around that. It's a far cry from an authentic village like you might find in the more remote parts of Thailand, and some would even call it a kitschy open-air museum. But in our opinion, that's a cynical view. Mallika City is worth a visit if you accept it for what it is: an attempt to transport travelers back to Thailand of bygone days. The encounters with the people felt genuine, and the scenery is undeniably beautiful – what more could you ask for?

Community
Comments 0
Start the conversation.