Why should you go there and how do you do it right?

Come hungry and early. King Rama V opened Nang Loeng in March 1900 as Thailand's first market on land, not on the water. Even today, it supplies the old quarter around Wat Sommanat with food. The offerings mainly consist of ready-made meals, curries with rice and noodles, and the typical Thai desserts found at the market, along with a small selection of fresh fruits and vegetables. The market is small, old, and unpretentious.

Try your way through the different restaurants rather than just sitting down once. Khao Gaeng Rattana on the corner offers 20 to 30 different curry dishes with rice, and the best ones are sold out by lunchtime. Look out for the traditional recipes that the dessert and snack stalls are known for: Sakhu Sai Mu and Sakhu Sai Pla (tapioca dumplings with pork or fish filling), Khanom Thua Paep (filled dumplings, here with shrimp filling), and braised pork knuckle with rice. Bring cash and small bills.

The restaurant is open Monday to Saturday from 8:00 AM to 3:00 PM and on Sundays until 5:00 PM. However, it gets quieter in the early afternoon, and the best deals are often sold out. Therefore, a visit is recommended for breakfast or an early lunch. It's located in the Old City on Nakhon Sawan Road, about a 10-minute walk from the Democracy Monument. Since there's no train station nearby, taking a taxi or Grab is recommended. A visit can easily be combined with a trip to Golden Hill and the nearby Loha Prasat.