Why should you go there and how do you do it right?

People come for the pier, the aquariums with live seafood, and the view across the water, not for fancy cuisine. It's an open-air restaurant right on the water on Thepkrasattri Road near Ko Kaeo, and it shows its age. Menus that are clearly decades old, comfortable plastic chairs, shorts and t-shirts – and nobody seems to mind. The regulars have been coming for years and especially appreciate the freshness and the fair prices.

Not every dish is a hit. Some guests found the fried squid mushy and the fried rice with salted fish a bit bland, and even fresh fish can be dry. My tip: Keep it simple and order whatever dishes are currently swimming in the aquarium instead of trying the entire menu. Order water spinach to go with it. The service is quick, which makes a big difference when you're hungry and night is falling.