Koh Pha Ngan was the last of the three "Big 3" islands in the western Gulf of Thailand that I visited; the other two were Koh Samui and Koh Tao. And I have to be honest: it wasn't – and isn't – my favorite island.

On the other hand, this island (whose name is pronounced Pa-ngan, not Pan-gan or, heaven forbid, Fangan) is quite different from what its reputation would suggest. Among other things, you certainly don't need to attend a Full Moon Party (or party at all) to enjoy your time here.

If you are wondering, “Is Koh Pha Ngan worth a visit?”, the answer is probably yes, although there are some limitations.

Getting to (and getting around on) Koh Pha Ngan

Anyone who's been to Koh Samui and seen Koh Pha Ngan across the water probably knows how to get there. The island is easily accessible by ferry or speedboat. Both routes run directly from Koh Samui and on to Koh Tao. Therefore, getting from Koh Tao to Koh Pha Ngan is also relatively easy. However, I recommend booking well in advance in both cases.

Once you arrive on Koh Pha Ngan, the comforts naturally come to an end, at least if you can't ride a motorbike. The island is large (more on that later), and although your hotel or guesthouse owner might be able to arrange a driver, having your own motorbike is ideal. The problem, of course, is that riding on your own can be dangerous or even fatal if you're not an experienced motorcyclist.

5 crucial truths about Koh Pha Ngan

Koh Pha Ngan is huge

With an area of ​​125 square miles, Koh Pha Ngan is 1.5 times the size of Koh Samui, which is itself a fairly large island. It's even a whopping 15 times the size of Koh Tao! Due to its size and topography, the island is difficult to explore unless you have your own vehicle (or plan to use drugs or drink alcohol).

You don't have to attend the full moon party.

That doesn't mean a holiday on Koh Pha Ngan has to include alcohol. You can easily spend your entire trip on Koh Pha Ngan sober, whether you're surfing at beaches like Haad Salad, hiking to the Bottle Beach viewpoint, or indulging in the island's diverse markets. And you certainly don't have to attend the monthly Full Moon Party, even if it seems like everyone else is there.

(Or even stay on Haad Rin at all)

Speaking of the Full Moon Party: it takes place at Haad Rin Beach, which is honestly one of my favorite beaches on the island. While there are plenty of accommodations there (I like the Pha Ngan Bayshore Resort), you also have numerous other options. Personally, I prefer staying on the west coast, whether in a quaint bungalow like the Coconut Bay Eco Resort or a simple guesthouse like Villa Cha Cha.

Koh Pha Ngan is full of New Age types.

If you Google activities on Koh Pha Ngan, you'll almost certainly find yoga classes, meditation sessions, and all sorts of other New Age offerings. And I don't want to judge anyone who subscribes to this way of thinking (even though I don't think dreadlocks are appropriate for white people, sorry). But the self-righteous atmosphere that so many supposedly "good" people spread can be stifling, especially if you don't particularly like Pha Ngan anyway.

(But there are also plenty of ordinary people.)

Whether it's hippies on Zen Beach or drug users on Haad Rin – Koh Pha Ngan has its share of shady characters. On the other hand, you'll encounter plenty of perfectly ordinary travelers along the way, whether hiking or spending a day at the beach. And regardless of what you think of the island's visitors, the locals are generally just as friendly as anywhere else in Thailand.

Alternatives to Koh Pha Ngan

Pha Ngan isn't really my cup of tea – and I wouldn't be surprised if it doesn't appeal to you either. Here are some other island options in Thailand, both near and far:

  • Koh Lanta: Although Koh Lanta is also a relatively large island where you need a motorbike (or a friend who can ride a motorbike), the island is significantly more relaxed than Koh Pha Ngan.
  • Koh Mak: This island could hardly be more different from Pha Ngan – it lies on the other side of the Gulf and is absolutely relaxed.
  • Koh Lipe: Lipe is significantly quieter than Koh Pha Ngan, but can be explored entirely on foot. It also boasts a lively pedestrian zone where, if you want, you can really let loose.
  • Koh Phi Phi: In some ways, the Phi Phi Islands seem like a more compressed version of Pha Ngan – more beauty in a smaller space; wilder parties with less questionable guests.

    • Whether you are choosing between Koh Pha Ngan and Koh Tao, or have a completely different choice, I hope you will consider entrusting me with planning your Thailand trip.

    More frequently asked questions about visiting Koh Pha Ngan

    Is Koh Pha Ngan worth a visit?

    Koh Pha Ngan is definitely worth a visit, at least to see for yourself. However, if you're not interested in the Full Moon Party or aren't able to rent a motorbike to explore the expansive island, it might not be the right choice.

    Is Koh Pha Ngan better than Koh Tao?

    For me, Koh Tao is a far more beautiful island than Koh Pha Ngan. While Pha Ngan also has some beautiful spots, none compare to Koh Nang Yuan on Koh Tao. Furthermore, getting around Koh Tao is much quicker and easier; on Pha Ngan, you usually end up spending more time than I'd like in such a place.

    How long should one stay on Koh Pha Ngan?

    Koh Pha Ngan is larger than it appears on the map; you'll likely need more time there than you expect (or perhaps even want to stay). Unless you're just going to Haad Rin for the Full Moon Party and leaving immediately, I would personally recommend planning at least 2-3 nights on Koh Pha Ngan.

    Conclusion

    Is Koh Pha Ngan worth a visit? Probably, but of course, that's a matter of personal taste. I was personally pleased to discover that you don't have to attend the Full Moon Party to enjoy the island. On the other hand, I wasn't a fan of the many hippies (and especially the costumed, wealthy hippies) on the island, nor of the fact that it's so much larger than Koh Tao and so much less developed for tourism than Koh Samui. Although I've been back and will go again, Pha Ngan simply isn't my favorite island in Thailand. Need help finding your perfect Thai paradise? Book me to plan your Thailand trip!