Travel journalist Julie Miller visits a hotel in Chiang Mai that has set new standards in boutique luxury.
In the reign of King Rama V, a homeowner's status was measured by the number of ornate columns in their house. The elegant teakwood building that forms the centerpiece of Chiang Mai's most luxurious boutique hotel boasts 137 columns – hence the unusual name "House of 137 Columns".
Located in a quiet residential area east of the Ping River, 137 Pillars House is an oasis of tranquility – a collection of two-story colonial-style buildings overlooking the original teakwood house, a glittering 25-meter pool, and lush gardens where ladies from Chiang Mai's high society sip champagne on four-poster beds draped in flowing muslin.
The original house, with its ornate latticework, dark, fan-cooled interior, and shutters, now houses a library, a teahouse, and a lounge; adjacent to it is the hotel's Thai restaurant, specializing in the northern Thai dish Khantoke.
Although the residential wings are new, they reflect the splendor of the colonial era. Each of the 30 suites features a spacious veranda with vintage tiles, furnished with a rattan planter chair and a daybed. The nostalgia continues inside: shutters, freestanding bathtubs on feet, luxurious four-poster beds, historical details, and black-and-white photographs of Chiang Mai from the turn of the century create a unique ambiance. Each suite also offers an outdoor shower and a generous dressing area.
No detail was spared in terms of luxury: An iPod sound system offers personalized soundtracks, including "Chill Out", "Sexy", "Hot Stuff" and "Sea, Sex and Sun"; there is a Nespresso machine for the morning caffeine kick; a minibar with free juices and beer; and mosquito coils that switch on punctually at dusk.
Although a taxi ride is required from Chiang Mai's Old City and night markets, 137 Pillars House is just a short walk from the riverfront with its trendy restaurants, bars, and galleries. Yet it's a place you'll be reluctant to leave, a place to linger and soak up the unique atmosphere.
I highly recommend the hotel's spa – I had one of the best massages of my life in Thailand there. After my therapist, Nettie, applied pressure to my back and heard a satisfying crack, she whispered in my ear, "I've realigned your back." Thank you so much, Nettie!
In a city with a wide selection of high-quality boutique accommodations, 137 Pillars House stands out as a truly luxurious experience, a place to enjoy or for a special occasion.
Prices start at USD 330++ per night (A$417) including a welcome drink, breakfast, free Wi-Fi, soft drinks, and beer from the minibar. For more information, please visit snhcollection.com/137pillarshouse/
The author was a guest at the house with 137 columns.

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