For me, the Trat archipelago has always represented a certain paradox. On the one hand, it's the first place I visited in Thailand – unless you count the night I spent at Suvarnabhumi airport before my trip (which I don't).
On the other hand, I've done most of my island-hopping trips within the kingdom elsewhere. In fact, since my first trip, I've only been back to Trat three times, which is significantly less frequent than my visits to Thailand's Andaman coast.
Despite this apparent contradiction, I still explored Trat extensively. In the following sections, I will help you compare Koh Mak, Koh Wai, and Koh Kood.
Understanding the Trat Archipelago
Before we discuss whether you should visit Koh Kood or Koh Mak (or Koh Wai), let's look at the composition of the Trat archipelago. Geographically, these three islands can be considered "satellites" of the larger Koh Chang. This is similar to the situation in Chumphon, where Koh Tao and Koh Pha Ngan are more or less part of Koh Samui.
In contrast, the arrangement of the islands in the Andaman Sea allows for island hopping and is even recommended. While it is theoretically possible to hop from Koh Chang to Koh Wai, Koh Mak, and finally Koh Kood, it is much easier (especially thanks to the boat schedules) to use Koh Chang as a base for exploring the surrounding islands.
Ways to compare Koh Mak, Koh Wai and Koh Kood
Arrival and getting around
No matter which of the Trat islands you choose, you'll need a boat to get there, whether from the mainland or Koh Chang. Getting around once you're there is another story. Tiny Koh Wai can be explored entirely on foot, as can Koh Mak, but it's much easier to discover by bicycle, motorbike, or golf cart (yes, they really do exist). Koh Kood is a huge island and practically requires a motorbike, unless you plan to stay on one beach the entire time.
beaches
In some respects (especially in the Koh Mak vs. Koh Wai debate), I find this pointless: no beach in the Trat archipelago truly impresses me. If I absolutely had to choose one beach on each island, they would be: Ao Soun Yai on Koh Mak; Paradise Beach (the beach in front of the Paradise Resort) on Koh Wai; and Bang Bao Beach on Koh Kood.
Activities
Of these three islands, Koh Wai offers the fewest activities – you can basically just walk from one beach to another. On Koh Mak, you can explore attractions like Wat Koh Mak temple and take a half-day trip to smaller islands like Koh Kham and Koh Kradat. Koh Kood offers the most diverse tourist options with dozens of beaches, several waterfalls, and even its own large Buddha statue.
Accommodation
Since Koh Wai only offers basic beach huts without air conditioning (essentially the same accommodations, just with different names), this comparison is actually between Koh Mak and Koh Kood. Koh Mak boasts several very nice resorts, including the Koh Mak Resort and the Seavana Resort. Koh Kood, on the other hand, offers true luxury, from The Beach Natural Resort to the Soneva Kiri.
Day trips and excursions
Earlier in this article, I mentioned that you can travel from Koh Mak to Koh Kham or Koh Kradat. But what about Koh Kood or Koh Wai? Well, the options are considerably fewer. In fact, I would say that from these two islands, a trip to Koh Mak itself would be the most realistic, at least assuming you can use the limited boat connections to make such a journey.
And Koh Chang?
I see Koh Chang less as a destination to be explored – although there are some very interesting and beautiful places there – and more as a starting point or hub. Despite the aforementioned geographical differences, I almost consider Koh Chang the Phuket of the eastern Gulf of Thailand. Not a place where you'd necessarily want to linger, but a good base for planning your trip or returning to at the end.
Whether you have time to explore Koh Chang depends, at least in part, on how long you spend on Koh Mak or Koh Kood. For example, if you plan a week in Trat but want to spend two nights each on Mak and Kood, as well as one or two more nights on Koh Wai, it quickly becomes clear that there won't be much time left for Koh Chang.
More frequently asked questions about Koh Mak and Koh Wai
Which is better, Koh Mak or Koh Kood?
Personally, I prefer Koh Mak. While the beaches there might not be quite as spectacular or beautiful as those on Koh Kood, I appreciate Koh Mak's manageable size, which makes it easier to explore and enjoy the island. Furthermore, I find the overall atmosphere on Koh Mak to be much more relaxed.
Is Koh Kood overrated?
I love Koh Kood, but I understand why some people think it's overrated. For one thing, the island is huge, which means it's difficult to explore unless you enjoy riding a motorbike. Also, while the beaches are beautiful, they're rather average compared to those on Thailand's Andaman coast.
Should you stay overnight on Koh Chang or Koh Mak?
Although I prefer Koh Mak as a destination, there are situations where staying on Koh Chang makes more sense – especially if you want to explore other islands. While some boats do run between Koh Mak, Koh Kood, and Koh Wai, Koh Chang, which serves as a kind of regional hub, makes it much easier to reach other islands (especially for day trips).
Conclusion
When it comes to Koh Mak, Koh Wai, and Koh Kood, the internet is surprisingly quiet. While there are plenty of articles about these islands (and their "mother island," Koh Chang), few help travelers distinguish between the islands of the Trat archipelago. Consider this a Rosetta Stone for island hopping in Trat, even if you've already read my main guidebook. Do you need personalized assistance planning your trip through Thailand's paradise islands? Then I would be delighted if you would consider hiring me to plan your Thailand adventure.

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