Why should you go there and how do you do it right?

Come in the morning. This is a real wholesale market, opening at 6:00 AM, and by the afternoon the freshest fruit and vegetables are already gone, leaving you with nothing but the heat and the crowds. Go early, eat on the go, and you'll get the most out of it.

The ground floor is all about groceries: fresh fruit, dry goods, spices, snacks, and ready-made meals. Dried mangoes are usually cheaper here than in the city's tourist shops—all the more reason to visit. Upstairs, you'll find clothing, fabrics, and household goods, while the second floor houses a food court. Regulars recommend the mango sticky rice behind Yenjai Coffee, the Thai iced tea and coffee directly at Yenjai, and the chicken rice stand in the aisle running perpendicular to the main floor. It's cramped and can seem a bit chaotic, but it's clean and easy to navigate once you get used to pushing your way through the crowds.