Why should you go there and how do you do it right?

The golden dragon is the main attraction and well worth the trip. It sits enthroned in a shrine at the heart of a modern Thai-Chinese complex in Udon Thani, huge and gleaming, and most people underestimate the scale of the place until they stand before it.

But there's more than just the dragon. A museum explores Chinese immigration and its impact on Thai society—a truly helpful context if you've ever wondered why so much trade in Isaan is conducted through Thai-Chinese families. Then there's a landscaped Chinese garden, and frankly, I'd dedicate most of your time to this. After the glittering gold and intricate details of the shrines, the gentle sound of flowing water and the lush greenery are a welcome respite. Allow an hour and a half for this, not just twenty.

Arrive early. The grounds are open and offer little shade, so by early afternoon you'll likely be rushing between the buildings rather than enjoying them. It's an active cultural and religious site, so please cover your shoulders and knees.