a guide to Nan

Hidden in a valley in northeastern Thailand, on the border with Laos, lies Nan – a paradise for travelers seeking a break in the wilderness.

Fresh air, seclusion, a multi-ethnic society, hidden bars, and whispering lovers make Nan a dream destination far from civilization. It's one of the best places to escape the noise of the city. And best of all: you'll meet locals who are friendly, humble, humorous, considerate, and passionate.

Arrival

There are daily flights from Don Mueang International Airport and Nan Airport, making it quite easy for travelers to get to Nan.

Nan is connected to Chiang Rai, Lampang, and Phrae by public bus lines. Buses run daily from Bangkok's Chatuchak bus station to Nan (10 hours/510 Baht).

locomotion

There are no taxis or tuk-tuks in Nan. Since the city is small, you can get around Nan using motorcycle taxis and songthaews, which can be hired similarly to tuk-tuks.

You can rent a car at Nan Airport if you want to explore Nan and the surrounding area on your own. You will need a valid driver's license to rent a vehicle.

Activities in Nan

The main attraction of the 400-year-old Buddhist temple Wat Phumin is the mural "Whispering Lovers" in the chapel hall. Created by a local artist in the late 19th century, this romantic painting depicts a tattooed Thai Lue man in a sarong whispering to a Lue woman in traditional dress. The fascinating aspect of this mural is that no one knows what he whispered. The wall's coloring and the intimate atmosphere between the lovers make this scene unique. Painted with plant pigments, the murals feature vibrant, earthy colors. Besides the romantic scenes, the murals in other galleries are also worth seeing, including the story of a local hero who journeys through hell to rescue a beautiful princess. Some paintings also offer a glimpse into village life in the 19th century.

Wat Phumin, Suriyapong Rd, Mueang Nan, Nan

Hidden on the left bank of the Nan River lies Wat Phra That Chae Haeng, a testament to the connection between Nan and Sukhothai that has existed for at least 600 years. The historic temple and its gilded pagoda are among Nan's holiest religious sites. Wat Phra That Chae Haeng is considered sacred for all those born in the Year of the Rabbit. The bell-shaped stupa, 20 meters wide and 80 meters high, is built in the Lanna style and houses relics of the Buddha as well as ancient silver Buddha votive tablets. Adjacent to the stupa is a historic chapel in the ethnic Thai Lue style, featuring a three-tiered gabled roof, carved wooden eaves, and Naga reliefs above the doors.

Wat Phra That Chae Haeng, Mahawong Road, Mueang Nan, Nan.

The National Museum of Nan, housed in a former residence of the princes of Nan, contains ancient artifacts and cultural treasures. Visitors will be captivated by Nan's famous black elephant tusks and an impressive collection of ancient wooden Buddha statues. A visit to the tribal exhibit on the ground floor is also worthwhile. Upstairs, a spectacular presentation of Nan's history, archaeology, local architecture, weaponry, and religious art awaits.

Nan National Museum, Phakong Road, Mueang Nan, Nan

Opening hours: 9am-4pm (Closed Mondays and Tuesdays)

The tranquility of nature and the friendliness of the locals make Pua a truly special experience. Here, nestled amidst rice paddies, lie the villages of the ethnic Thai Lue communities and small Buddhist temples. Located in the heart of Pua, Wat Ton Laeng attracts visitors with its authentic beauty. The ordination hall, built in 1884 in the Thai Lue style, features two hipped roofs and a gable roof. The small but exquisite roof is adorned with a colorful sunburst motif. Naga figures decorate the hipped roofs, while two lion statues guard the entrance to the chapel. The temple is best visited in the morning when the sunlight illuminates the seated Buddha.

Wat Ton Laeng, Pua district, is within an hour's drive of Nan town.

Four interconnected houses form the perfect residence for Chao Fong Kham, a descendant of the ruler of Nan. The 200-year-old noble house of Nan, built of teak, with a high basement and a gabled roof covered with clay tiles, has been restored and transformed into a living museum. The building was constructed using traditional methods with various timber joinery techniques. The upper floor houses a museum with an extensive collection of antique and valuable objects, such as silverware and antique textiles.

Hong Chao Fong Kham (Nan Noble House), Sumon Thewarat 2 Alley, Mueang Nan.

The Wa River, which originates near the border between Thailand and Laos, offers one of Thailand's greatest rafting and camping experiences. A rafting trip on the middle section of the wild river typically includes two to three nights at riverside camps. There, you can watch fireflies dancing shimmering arabesques through the forest canopy, and gibbons will wake you in the morning. The final stretch winds through tropical jungle, where monkeys sometimes giggle and laugh from the treetops over the drenched rafters. Between October and February is the best time for rafting in Nan, as the water is then powerful and crystal clear.

For rafting and camping trips in the national park, visitors need local tour operators. Authorized agents are available in Nan.

For further information, please contact the Tourism Authority of Thailand (Nan Office) at +6654 711 217.

Nestled within a vast nature reserve and the valley of the Bo Kluea district in the Nan outpost, these ancient salt springs were once Nan's most important resource, attracting salt traders from around the world. A visit to the valley's salt springs makes for a worthwhile day trip. Stroll through the small village and watch the locals making their traditional salt: pouring buckets of brine into a large pan and letting the water evaporate over low heat. Bo Kluea is also an ideal spot for lunch. A professional Thai chef left Bangkok and a five-star hotel to open his Boklua View resort (+66 54 778 140) in this district. Considered the best in the valley, the resort serves excellent local and international cuisine with breathtaking views. Further down the valley, the Oun I Mang Resort (+66 97 036 2450) offers a cozy and comfortable stay in rustic-chic stilt houses.

If you'd like to travel there, rent a car in Nan and enjoy the views along the way. Bo Kluea is about 100 kilometers or a two-hour drive from downtown Nan. Alternatively, you can hire a minibus to take you there.

Nestled in the tranquil Pua Valley lies an organic cacao plantation and the exclusive boutique resort, Cocoa Valley Resort. Whether you're a couple seeking peace and seclusion, a group of friends looking to escape the hustle and bustle, or a solo traveler exploring nature on an off-road motorcycle, this resort offers tranquility and relaxation. Cocoa Valley Resort provides ample space for guests to unwind and immerse themselves in nature. Visit temples and villages and let your mind wander in the peaceful valley. The 16-room resort is situated on a working cacao plantation, and many of the food and drinks served here are prepared with raw, unadulterated cacao. All rooms are stylishly furnished in a loft style, featuring exposed concrete beams, wood paneling, floral tiles, high ceilings, and a balcony overlooking the lush cacao trees. At the Cocoa Valley Café, you can create your own chocolate to take home – a truly unforgettable experience!

Room prices during the high season range from approximately 1,000 to 2,800 Baht per night for two people in a double room.

Cocoa Valley Resort, 339 Pua, Nan

Telephone: +6663 791 1619

Surrounded by beautiful rice paddies that stretch through the Pua Valley, Toobna is the ideal place to relax and unwind. Amidst this breathtaking scenery, you'll enjoy delicious, healthy meals served on a bamboo tray before spending the night in a cozy farmhouse. Here, you can recharge amidst idyllic nature.

Telephone: +6694 143 1969

This hidden bar is the perfect spot for those seeking a true adventure. Located on Sumon Thewarat Road in Mueang Nan, the Bitter Bar is difficult to spot at first glance. From the basement of the old-fashioned wooden building, simply follow the light to the first floor. There, you'll find a bar with an extensive drinks menu – craft beer, cocktails, draft beer, Scotch whisky, and bourbon. It's an unexpected discovery to find this stylish bar in such a remote area as Mueang Nan. However, the Bitter Bar is often closed for private events.

Bitter Bar, Sumon Thewarat Road, Mueang Nan, Nan

Opening hours: 7:00 PM - 12:00 AM

Want to take a piece of Nam home with you? Pha Lai Nam Lai, a handwoven cotton fabric with a wave-like pattern of flowing water, makes the perfect souvenir. The design is inspired by the Thai Lue Sarong, where artisans use silver and black threads to weave undulating patterns that symbolize flowing water and fertility. Here you'll find the best places to support local artisans—and, of course, to shop to your heart's content.

Lamduan Pha Thor (+6654 792 317), a local textile shop in the Pua district, transforms traditional Thai Lue houses, picturesque landscapes, and coffee into a cultural and livable destination. Visitors can refresh themselves and enjoy a touch of luxury amidst endless rice paddies, bamboo pathways, and thatched farmhouses. While watching artisans at their looms, guests can browse the collection of Thai Lue textiles. Homestays with simple accommodation and meals offer an opportunity to experience Thai Lue culture firsthand.

Right next to Wat Phumin lies Nan City Square (or Khuang Mueang), which has been a center for culture and commerce for centuries – a tradition that continues to this day. On weekends, the corner of Suriyaphong and Phakong is closed to traffic between 4 pm and 9 pm. Lively, colorful shopping malls line the square, with food stalls, artisans, and fabric vendors offering their wares. Amidst this vibrant activity, numerous stalls selling handwoven fabrics and Pha Lai Nam Lai textiles can also be found.

Selected articles about Nan

How to cope with the heat in Thailand: Tips to stay cool and enjoy the summer in Thailand

The heat in Thailand can be intense, but locals, expats and tourists alike find creative and refreshing ways to cool down...

Do you need travel information?

Discover everything you need to know before your trip – from visa requirements and entry guidelines to essential travel tips and frequently asked questions.