Why should you go there and how do you do it right?

Think carefully before you go. This is a Kayan community in Nang Lae, north of Chiang Rai. There, the women wear the brass neck rings that are described in countless guidebooks as a symbol of the hill tribes of northern Thailand. The debate surrounding villages like this—how the inhabitants came to be here and what they earn from tourism—is real and still unresolved. If this bothers you, you should probably avoid going. Even the best intentions on your part cannot resolve this issue.

If you go, be sure to check out the weaving workshop. Handmade textiles are sold directly by the weavers, and buying directly supports the artisans. However, don't expect a comprehensive cultural heritage experience. The paths are lined with craft stalls, encounters are brief, and many visitors feel the whole thing is staged. Come with patience, a little Thai knowledge, or a smile, and don't expect any in-depth conversations beyond a quick exchange.