Why should you go there and how do you do it right?

Come first for the view, then for the temple. This isn't meant to be disrespectful; it's simply what people say after climbing the highest hill above Mae Hong Son. From the observation deck, you have a breathtaking 360-degree panoramic view: the city with its runway lies below, and mountain ridges rise to the east and west.

Two white and gold chedis form the silhouette familiar from every photograph of the province. Around the main pagoda, there's a Buddha statue for each day of the week, so you can find yours and make an offering during your walk. Next to the main temple stands a small, quiet memorial to the motorcyclists who lost their lives on the Mae Hong Son circuit – a place for peace and reflection. As for sunrise and sunset: be realistic. The distant mountain ranges swallow the first and last light, so you'll usually only see colors on the horizon rather than a disc-shaped Buddha in the sky. Early morning is still the best choice, when the clouds lie like a sea over the city.