Why should you go there and how do you do it right?

The concept works – and that's the surprising part. The shopping mall is designed like an airport, with each floor featuring a different city theme: from the Caribbean in the basement, through Rome, Paris, Tokyo, London, and Istanbul, to San Francisco and Hollywood on the top floor. Decoration and signage extend throughout the entire building, even reaching the restrooms, which visitors love to photograph. There are over 600 shops, a wide mix of international brands and Thai labels, as well as the Gourmet Market in the basement and the SF Cinema on the sixth floor. The escalators are up to 36 meters long, making them among the longest in Thailand.

The real reason I'm sending you here is Pier 21, the food court on the fifth floor of San Francisco's second level. You load a prepaid card at the counter, use it at the stalls, and return it for the remaining balance. Thai dishes cost around 40 to 90 baht—the cheapest food in the entire neighborhood. The catch is the seating situation. On weekends at lunchtime, the tables fill up quickly, so it's best to eat around 11:00 a.m. or after 2:00 p.m.

Terminal 21 is open daily from 10:00 AM to 10:00 PM. A covered pedestrian walkway connects it to the BTS Asok station (Exit 1) and the MRT Sukhumvit station (Exit 3). You enter the terminal on the Rome level without having to cross a street. Pick up a free tourist card at the information desk on the Paris level (M), which gives you discounts at participating shops. You can also store your luggage there.