Why should you go there and how do you do it right?

Save yourself the trip, as this is a private residence. It's a still-used royal residence in Dusit, long associated with King Rama IX, and the gates will not be open to you. Visitors arrive hoping for a palace tour and leave after seeing a moat, a guard, and—if the reviews are to be believed—a lizard.

What lies behind the walls is far more interesting than what you see from the outside. The grounds border rice paddies and fish farms, which were part of the late king's agricultural activities, and the estate sits on such a large plot that it shapes the atmosphere of the entire neighborhood. From the outside, you can see the outer wall, the shallow moat, and get a sense of its dimensions. That's all.

The only real use for this place is the circular path. Locals use it for walking, jogging, and cycling, and it's green and quiet—something rarely found in central Bangkok. It's best to explore it early in the morning and then spend your time at the nearby Wat Benchamabophit, which is open to everyone and well worth the walk.