Why should you go there and how do you do it right?

This is the Khmer temple that predates Angkor Wat and significantly influenced it in some areas. The complex lies within a rectangular, walled enclosure made of sandstone and laterite. It features a central shrine tower and bas-reliefs depicting Hindu and Buddhist stories. If you are interested in the history of Southeast Asia, the exquisite relief art alone is worth the trip. But even if not, an hour's walk along the paths between the prangs, gates, and smaller shrines is worthwhile, as the sheer scale of the complex speaks for itself.

Arrive early. The gates open at 7:30 a.m., and the grounds offer little shade. During the hot months, you'll find yourself hopping from one shady spot to the next from late morning onward. It's quietest on weekday mornings. Signs explain the historical context, and there's a small museum with sculptures and artifacts from the site—well worth a visit. The extra twenty minutes are well spent. The best time to visit is from November to February.