Why should you go there and how do you do it right?

The stairs are the key here. They're so steep that even reasonably fit people need about 15 to 20 minutes from the bottom, longer if it's busy. Sandals are not a good choice. Wear sneakers. Bring water. Then you'll be rewarded with a breathtaking view: the two bays of Phi Phi Don rising from the narrow strip of land, limestone cliffs in the distance, and Ao Nang somewhere on the horizon.

Timing is crucial. Sunrise is by far the quietest option: the sun rises around 6:30 a.m., and you can watch the mist dissipate behind you over the jungle while the island is still half asleep. Sunset is very crowded, but hikers report that you can easily find a spot on the rocks around 5:30 a.m. There's a café at the top—a welcome break on the way up. Some hikers take the jungle trail up and the stairs down, finding this the more pleasant option.